Personal experience. Any lubricant effect of WD-40 is gone in a month or so when proper use of oil or grease lasts much longer.
nate
Personal experience. Any lubricant effect of WD-40 is gone in a month or so when proper use of oil or grease lasts much longer.
nate
5 gallons of kerosene isn't that expensive. I do keep a can around for parts cleaning etc. Kerosene is nice for parts that you won't get to right away because it will leave a thin layer of paraffin on whatever you've soaked in it. In fact I think I have the internal bits of an old steering box soaking in a coffee can of kero right now.
nate
Not Tony but you can see it through observation. wd40 has light aromatics that quickly evaporate and leave a tacky goo film behind. It isn't a lubricant.
He's right though. This one, the last one, and the one before. 102 years can cover three centuries.
It certainly is not the best, but it is a lubricant. Look up the word in the dictionary.
Lubricants are typically used to separate moving parts in a system. This has the benefit of reducing friction and surface fatigue together with reduced heat generation, operating noise and vibrations. Lubricants achieve this by several ways. The most common is by forming a physical barrier i.e. a thin layer of lubricant separates the moving parts. This is termed hydrodynamic lubrication. In cases of high surface pressures or temperatures the fluid film is much thinner and some of the forces are transmitted between the surfaces through the lubricant. This is termed elasto-hydrodynamic lubrication.
I've tried PB Blaster (from the auto parts store, also seen it in Home Depot). Got a can in the back of the van I've used for several years. HD also has a dry teflon version of lubricant, in a spray can, near the PB Blaster.
One advantage to PB Blaster, it sprays in a relatively straight stream, so I can spray some oil on a part at a distance. Like brake cables, while laying under the vehicle.
"dadiOH" wrote in news:R6pxl.106577$Yl7.70165 @newsfe30.ams2:
Well I heard a Giant Sequoia toppled and imbedded in it was a can of Ace Hardware kero.
My experience with WD-40. This goes back some 40 yrs...when I worked on electro-mechanical NCRs. A salesman came in to demo WD-40...he sprayed the contacts of an open relay that was connected to a light bulb.(110V) He dropped the relay in clear container and began switching it on an off. We were awed by the "water-proofing" effects of this "magical" demonstration. We bought a mess of this stuff and after a week we found it gummed-up keys (or more precisely, their detent) to where they wouldn't retain. Meaning, disassembly...cleaning...and re-lube with typewriter oil.
FWIW
Well since colds are unavoidable, and vampires don't exist, i shall write your comment off as sarcasm .
the proper cure for a wet cap is a new cap. Once wet, always wet in the case of distributer caps. Once they've been wet, they're never the same again.
Ya, and if you try the same experiment without the WD, it'll work just as well.
-snip-
Sounds like time to puncture can and use it with Q-tips.
How do you know that?
I doubt it, but if it did take a matching valve off another can.
Jim
Had to go out one cold ,rainy ,night, on a service call,with my cable truck, big v8. It was running funny,but it made it to the station,without any trouble. 4 in the morning ,tired, fixed the trouble, and headed back to my truck. Cranked but wouldn't start! Checked everything, nothing seemed, out of wack. 10 miles back in the boonies. I pulled of the disturbutor, and found that it was soaked with condensation! Thats it! Wiped it down with a rag, and it would misfire, won't start!
Got out the WD-40, spray the inside of the cap, put it back together, truck started without a single miss! got me back home! My 2 cents worth
That's sad. I've heard similar about electric motor berrings. They only run a day or two on WD.
When I was in school, the high school remastered the building. The custodial went through with a pump oiler of WD, and soaked em all. I've heard that 10w30 motor oil will kill Medeco locks, makes them sluggish. My old HS had Sargent brand, standard tumblers. They may have been OK with WD.
I don't know if anyone here has ever used a product called Sea Foam in their vehicle gas tank for fuel system problems but I know that stuff has worked for me. Cured a stalling, sputtering Ford V-8 engine. Also cured a sputtering, bogging snowmobile engine. Sea Foam also makes a lube spray as well and comes in an aerosol can. I don't know what the chemical difference or the cost difference is between Sea Foam and WD-40 but I switched to the Sea Foam spray just because the other Sea Foam product worked well for me. Just my 2 cents. By the way I have tried WD-40 on my creaky right knee a couple times and I swear it did seem to make it less creaky for a little while after....... I have also sprayed WD-40 on artificle fishing lures and believe it or not I did get more strikes with it.. Heard that someone else had done that before so I tried it. If you don't believe me, go try it for yourself. Steve
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:33:46 -0400, against all advice, something compelled "Ed Pawlowski" , to say:
When I use Astroglide, the friction and surface fatigue do indeed go down. But the operating noise and vibrations increase, until the system runs past its failsafe point and needs to be reset.
Assuming that is in an automotive system, there must be either an additive (ask the NASCAR folks) or ethylene glycol (antifreeze) present.
Joe
'Proper cure' and 'Get Home' are 2 different things. Although with modern electronic ignitions and cap material and design, I haven't had a wet cap causing no-start in many many years. As a kid, with the bakelite or whatever caps (especially on VWs), it was a routine thing. Of course back then, driving junk, I always kept a few tools, WD40, and duct tape in the car. It probably didn't help that me and my buddies liked to puddle-surf in our cars.
-- aem sends...
That's because THAT's what WD was made for. Water Displacement. And that's all.
it's not an absolute requirement . And what the HELL does NASCAR have to do with it?
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