Waterproofing crawlspace walls and floor with DryLok

[Harry Muscle]

I have a crawlspace under part of my house that I would like to insulate so it's not just wasted space. First off though I'd like to deal with any possible moisture, radon gas, and bugs that might find their way in.

My question is this ... can DryLok Latex Masonary Waterproofer be used on the floor?

My plan is to paint the walls and floor with DryLok Latex Masonary Waterproofer. There's no real water seeping in, but there is one section of the wall that has that white powder stuff on it. I'm also assuming that DryLok will help with keeping radon gas out, which is the reason why I would also like to use it on the floor (I don't think I actually have any real issue with radon, but I figure since I'm down there, why not do it just in case)

Or am I asking for trouble (ie: will it wear away way to quickly on the floor, etc.)?

Thanks, Harry

[m Ransley]

Read a can im sure it says no floors

[Harry Muscle]

Do you know of any waterproofing product that can be used on floors?

Thanks, Harry

[barry]

Sure, .006" thick polyethylene under the floor. Otherwise, you can smear on what you like, and moisture will still come through. (Okay, a couple inches of tar would work.)

Keeping water from coming through masonry is a challenge- essentially impossible unless there's an impermeable membrane in there. Drainage is _big_ factor.

Keeping radon out essentially means venting it elsewhere, like from house and ground into under-house ducts through blower and out-there. IOW, install small vent ducts under slab that are kept at negative gauge pressure, and dump inflow to the great-outdoors. Check with local experts, first, to see if you have a problem; second, how best to deal with it.

If you can insulate above and part/most way down the walls, and ventilate below that to remove moisture, that should serve you well. Vapor-barrier under floor would help too.

J

[Kyle Boatright]

The white powder on the wall is where water has seeped through the wall, then evaporated, leaving a mineral deposit. Before using dry-loc on that area, you'll need to wire brush it. Otherwise, dry-loc'ing your walls makes perfect sense. I woudn't bother with the floor unless you have a seepage problem through the slab.

By the way, "installing" dry-loc is quite a chore. The first coat has to be brushed on, and since the stuff is so thick, it is a lot of work and goes slowly. The second coat can be rolled, so it goes much faster.

For Radon, just make sure you have decent ventilation so you don't get a build-up.

KB

[Jim]

Despite many naysayers, I completed a dog house made of cinder block located in the side of hill. Cinder block voids filled with concrete.

Used drylok on walls inside and out, and concrete slab floor. Exterior was backfilled with dirt two days after applying the drylok. Put two carpet remnants on the floor as I anticipated drylok wear from dog's nails.

Unless you spend alot of time or make many visits to the crawlspace, wear would not concern me in your case.

[Joseph Meehan]

Putting it on the outside was no doubt a good idea. I would expect it to be far more effective and longer lasting there. These products are not bad products, but in general people expect too much from them due to the advertising of the manufacturers. I think I would have added a water proofing layer, designed for exterior below grade use, over the Drylok before backfilling, but you are likely to be OK.

[Jim]

Just waiting for a few good, soaking rains to see if its effective. S. central Texas is pushing drought conditions now. Ran waterhose on the hill above the doghouse shows no apparent water intrusion inside, and the front is dry. My grandkids think the doghouse is "neat". They use it for a hideaway when playing.