water well pump wiring - using submersible cable undergound

I am completing a water well. The pump will be set down 180' in a 200' well. The wiring will go via conduit in trench another 250' to the structure that houses the controls. Is there any reason not to use one unbroken stretch of submersible cable for this entire distance? Also, is there any reason not to bring the wiring out underground near the pitless adapter, with the conduit attached and sealed, watertight, to the casing?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrkg snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Without knowing any of the specifics, like pump HP, I would be leery of the 250 ft run.
You might want to nudge the wire size up one size over the submers cable that comes out of the well. This in order to reduce voltage drop and hard-starting for the poor motor.
It's going to be far less expensive to do pulling wires in conduit than running 250 ft of submers cable, I'm guessing.
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The pump is 1/2 HP 230V. The wire is #12 gauge which is the proper size for a 430' total run, according to various wire tables. The only question here is whether it is ok to use submersible rated cable in a trench inside conduit rather than underground rated cable.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
vic wrote:

Easiest thing is to make it out of steel stud and track. Visit the USG web site and do a search for chase framing or soffit framing. That'll tell you all you need to know.
R
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If the conductors are sized properly and it's in electrical conduit it would be fine, but you don't want to come out by the pitless. It's to far down, which could be a problem for pump removal, and you really don't want any ground water seeping in. There is no disadvantage to having a set of splices right at the top under the head
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
RBM (remove this) wrote:

Good points. I'll add another one that probably isn't thought of often enough. Doing it that way allows you to add a 110 utility outlet at the well head. Does require an additional run of 12/3 but is well worth it. That outlet out by my well has been very convenient several times.
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrkg snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

That's pretty much the way our well water line/electric was arranged. We ran a trench about 200 feet down our road, then veered to the house, and tied into the interior wall and pressure tank about 30" below grade (about 280' total). We ran a flexible water line in 3" sch 40 PVC conduit down the trench and ran the electrical line (outdoor 12-2, I believe) in the same trench (no conduit) back upstream to the wellhead, right down to the pump. We had to make one electrical splice since we only had 200' of electrical cable at the size needed. We separated the two lines into the house by about 6", the water line below the electrical. Metal conduit was used immeditely on the interior of the basement wall for the electric.
Seal carefully on the interior, as we foundout. Until the ground settles, water can seep between the backfilled earth and get into the sleeve run through the basement wall (if you have a basement).
Mike http://home.earthlink.net/~mikefrandson/NewHouseRelease.htm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.