Water pump, running correctly??

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Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.
So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at 40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.
Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.
I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/ on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.
Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding tank?
Thanks
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I should say I'm not on city water, live out in the country with my own well.
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I sounds more like the check valve has failed, letting the pressure bleed off back into the well. Perhaps the high pressure killed it. The only other thing I can think of is a major leak, but you would notice that, even if it was under ground, it would always be wet in a spot.
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wrote:

If it only does it when you are using water it isn't the check valve, it is the bladder tank. Push in the stem on tire valve on top and I bet water comes out. Drain the system down and blow air in it with the water valve open. You will be pushing out a lot of water, when air starts coming out, close the valve and bring it up to 40 This makes it better for a while, A new bladder tank is in your future.
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Rapid cycling suggest the air chamber (bladder, Extrol, whatever) is out of air. He's right, about reinflating the air chamber.
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air space in your tank to hold pressure until a reasonable amount of water has been used. Since there is little air space, it takes a small amount of water use to drop the pressure from 60 lbs. to 40 lbs. Drain the tank and restart the system. that should restore the proper air/water balance. elgy
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smk17 wrote:

you need more air and less water in your tank.
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I agree that the problem is the air charge in the tank. Google "bladder type water tank" to find out how to check it for a ruptured bladder.
Hank
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As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non- bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder type, the bladder is broken.
Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the pump operation.
You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.
Harry K
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Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get it fixed.
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Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.
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wrote:

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.
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On Sep 22, 10:29am, snipped-for-privacy@neo.rr.com wrote:

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the bottom and fills with water, not air.
Harry K
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On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That *may* have ruptured the bladder.
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On Sep 23, 7:02am, snipped-for-privacy@neo.rr.com wrote:

Just how could it? The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120 psi than it would be normally.
Harry K
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Oooppss, (slaps forhead)I was looking at it 'upside down' - yes it could have blown it.
Harry K
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I was ging to say it would depend which 'side' you were on. Of the bladder that is !!!!! Sorry, attempt at bad joke :-)
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On Sep 23, 12:02pm, snipped-for-privacy@neo.rr.com wrote:

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe an informational question for personal edification? Please.
Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.
Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!
The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc. Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as new!
But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned on this news group.
So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system? Such as the ones we have used?
TIA for any informational comments.
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The 'non bladder' is very old technology and were a nuisance to maintain. There were 'snifter' and 'float valves' to automatically keep the tank filled but they failed often. Then the pre-charge had to be adjusted regularly, every month or two and that required draiing the tank.
I don't know if new ones are even available any more. In any case, the cost of a new bladder tank is not a high-ticket item. I for sure, after maintaining both types for over 30 years now, would never install a non-bladder one.
Harry K
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Thanks for the reply althogh AFIK we didn't have any 'sniffer valve' failures in some 19 years, a waterlogged tank I think once? Interesting thing was the Duro would self prime but the second, no deeper had to be primed to draw up water. Very little trouble with either one. Cheers.
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