Water pressure in house?

Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two cycles and the telltale did not rise.
Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an expansion tank as well.
Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
thanks,
nate
PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20 minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
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Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two cycles and the telltale did not rise.
Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an expansion tank as well.
Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
thanks,
nate
PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20 minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
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Sounds like it's time to stop shopping at HD, and find a plumbing specialty store, which will end up costing you less in the long run, especially when you factor in the price of gasoline, and the legal fees you'll pay after you strangle the next HD moron. :-)
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70 PSI won't hurt a thing. An expansion tank over the water heater is still a good idea though.
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wrote in message

Agreed. I love my 70 psi.
Without something to prevent backflow from the house, the only reason I can see for an expansion tank would be to prevent seepage when the water to the house or heater gets shut off.
Bob
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N8N wrote:

Then think outside the bigbox. We have a local real supply house just one town over. It is owned and operated by a knowledgeable family. They have a huge selection compared to the big box and I am in and out in minutes for something like you described.
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I hear ya. Problem is places like that tend to be open strictly during contractor's hours, when I'm on the clock for my Real Job(tm)
There actually is a plumbing supply place even closer than either HD but I have never managed to drive by there while they're open.
nate
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I've run a s high a 90 psi static pressure for years with no problem.
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On Oct 30, 3:13 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote:

Yeah, 70psi should be fine and with no back flow preventer, no need for an expansion tank, which is just one more thing to eventually have problems with.
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The general rule is that 60 psi is the recommnded high point for residences. Above that 'can' cause premature wear on fixtures, particularly appliance valves. That is probably a very consevative view. I doubt that your 70 is going to do so.
Your meter (if you have one) is probably buried out at the curb line. If so, you will find a cover approximately flush with the ground.
Harry K
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I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not worry about it too much.
I do need to rebuild one toilet but other than that I have no problems evident that could conceivably be caused by high pressure (reason for initial inquiry was old T&P valve was occasionally tripping, but it is rated at 150 PSI and apparently pressure never goes above 80, so it seems like simply a bad valve - new valve hasn't tripped at all in a week and a half, and water heater is set hotter than ever) is one toilet that has a bad fill valve that needs to be replaced, other than that no issues. I can deal with that...
I suppose one possible factor in the old T&P valve's early demise is that apparently the house's plumbing had been left full of water for probably the entire duration of the previous owner's residence - something like 18 years - and all of the little expansion pipes had lost their air. I have noticed a marked decrease in water hammer since I drained the system down and refilled it. Possibly related?
nate
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Your biggest potential concern would be your washing machines inlet valve. If this doesn't shut you'll flood the room. High pressures can make these valves fail when they get older.
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On Oct 31, 3:56 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote:

Both the PO and I are in the habit of turning off the supply spigots to the washing machine when it is not in use. I was thinking of adding a single-handle ball valve unit to make it even easier to do and harder to forget. You do make a good point though.
nate
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I haven't priced PRs in spite of havign to install one in my mother's house. I don't think they are all that expensive and the installation is not that big a deal.
Harry K
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wrote:

Per a plumber I recently talked to, $50-$60, plus installation, or the cost of your favorite 6-pack if you do it yourself.
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