On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 15:37:13 -0800, Jennifer Murphy
If something goes wrong again, you could get a hot water modem. You'd
have to subscribe to a hot water website also, but you can get up to 4
galllons an hour for a modest cost. The modem has a built-in spigot.
We have Comcast, so we'd never get anywhere close to 4 galllons/hour. It
would take forever to fill even a one quart bottle, let alone a bathtub.
Plus it would go down all the time and it would cost an arm and a leg.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2015 17:42:49 -0800 (PST), bob_villa
More so. And less likely to knock on your door with weird stories about
gold plates, magic translating stones, magic submarines, magic
underwear, and promises of becoming god one way for only 10% of
everything you earn.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2015 22:23:05 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
Ive had the same electric water heater for about 20 years. I have a
well, with some iron in the water, but basically good water. I drain
that tank once a year, sometimes twice. Never had any trouble with it
On the other hand, a nearby town with city water, has a severe problem
with calcium. The tanks literally fill with calcium in 5 years or less.
I've helped several guys in town replace these heaters. They are so
full of calcium that you cant get a drop of water out the drain valves.
I bought a trailer house from in town, which I bought just for storage,
so I wont connect water to it. It had a 30 gal. electric water heater,
which was only 2 years old. I removed it to fix a bad spot in the floor
under it, and took it outside Just for the heck of it, I dragged it
down by the barn, removed all the pipes and flipped it upside down.
Then I hooked a garden hose to the drain spigot on the bottom (which was
now on top), and let water run thru it. I ended up with a full 5 gallon
pail of calcium chunks on the ground, and a little more. I flushed it
for over 2 hours and the water finally came out clean.
Ive never hooked it up, but I think it should work. (It was working
when I got that trailer house). If I need to replace my water heater, I
would not hesitate to use this one. At worst, the lower element may be
bad from all the crud in the tank, but that's easy to fix.
You DONT need a dielectric device if your pipes are PEX or CPVC
(plastic). But if your pipes are metal (especially copper), you SHOULD
use them. If you have plastic pipes and an electric water heater, be
sure to ground the tank to your breaker box ground. Gas heaters dont
need the electrical ground. Plus the gas pipe is metal anyhow and that
should ground it, even if it's not really needed.
BTW: Someone asked about those straps for keeping the tanks from tipping
in an earthquake prone area. I dont live in such an area, but I'd
surely use one if I did. Also, trailer houses need straps. I know a
guy who moves trailer houses and he had a tank tip over while he was
transporting a house. It made a big mess. Ever since then, he always
checks for straps and installs them if there are none, and he drains the
tanks too. New trailers always have them, but most often when someone
replaces a tank, they dont re-use them.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2015 23:46:43 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
Just curious what they use in Wash state?
Where I live they are not required, but the trailer homes have them and
they are just a one or 1.5 inch wide piece of galv. tin. When that
trailer house mover has to replace them, he uses that 1" galv. pipe
hanging strap that has holes every 3/4 inch or so.
I had our 40 gallon gas water heater replaced recently. It is a Rheem
or Ruud, but I'm told they're essentially the same.
Originally I considered doing it myself but was hesitent due to there
being gas lines involved. After watching what the installer had to do
to make it fit properly I'm glad I let the professional take care of
it. I think the total cost was around $900, but it was a next day job.
I know that's steep, but I've dealt with these people before and they
are always professional and come out the same day. It was worth it to
The strap I used was sold specifically as a water heater strap at one of
the Home Centers, like this one.
It is basically just a 1-1/2" galvanized strip of metal that wraps around
the tank and bolts to the wall (I used lag bolts and large washers).
It comes in two halves that overlap in front of the water heater. There is
a bolt on the front that you adjust to tighten the strap securely around
the water heater.
It's only $20, cheap insurance to secure the tank, and it's reusable when
the time comes to replace the water heater.
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