Water heater problem


Hi:
Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973. Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes thru the floor and discharges under the home.
What now?
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Phil wrote:

You might try rec.outdoors.rv-travel group, but be warned the group is basically a name calling bunch of weirdos. However there are a few knowledgable folks in there.
Lou
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Call 1-800-HOME DEPOT, ask for water heater department, give them your address and credit card number...
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Phil wrote:

You can either replace the valve or replace the water heater. How much money do you want to spend? How's the heater? Does it work otherwise?
I'd start by turning off the water supply and working the valve open and closed a few times. That *might* loosen up the deposits that are causing the problem and give you another year or two.
If you want to replace the valve, it's a straightforward job. You just have to have the tools. If all the pipes are soldered in place, I recommend you have a handyman or plumber in to do the replacement. If you're adventurous, borrow a book from the library and learn to sweat copper.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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wrote:

good advice, except that the relief valve mentioned screws directly onto the water heater... (3/4" mpt).
Phil scott
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phil scott wrote:

That's true, but the drain piping could be either sweated to the valve or screwed in.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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On Sep 8, 8:44am, snipped-for-privacy@INVALID.com(Phil) wrote:

Well, your water heater has already exceeded its design life. That said, you can probably get more service out of it simply by replacing the T/P valve. they're less than $20 at your favorite plumbing supply. In the meantime, try flipping the handle on the T/P valve a couple times, if it's a lime deposit that is holding it open you might be able to blast the gunk out and get it to seal again (but it still needs to be replaced, as there wouldn't be gunk on the seat to begin with if it weren't opening occasionally)
I would probably go ahead and replace the T/P valve as an immediate repair and then start thinking about whether the whole tank should be replaced or not. If you're feeling froggy you could pull the anode and see what kind of condition it's in.
good luck
nate
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replace the t&p valve.
s

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Phil wrote:

At 13 years it is nearing end of it's life. P&T valve is known to go bad. Also is your water hard? Then there could be lots of scale build up inside tank. Have been flushing th tank regularly(once or twice a year)?
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On Sep 8, 5:44am, snipped-for-privacy@INVALID.com(Phil) wrote:

replace the valve, it has a leaky seat... cost about $40 at home depot...take the old one in so you can match it.
Phil scott
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On Sep 8, 8:44�am, snipped-for-privacy@INVALID.com(Phil) wrote:

might try ncycling the valve repeatedly opening and closing, at 13 years i would replace the tank, its paST ITS DESIGN LIFE
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Check your water pressure

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As you have been advised replace valve or replace the heater to replace the valve get valve and one compression fitting size to match valve outlet, fitting can be reducing type 3/4" FPT to 5/8" OD on piece of tubing small pipe wrench adjustable and you are ready to get it done 1/2 hour finish Tony

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code doesn't allow the outlet of a temperature and pressure relief valve to be reduced although you can bush down the inlet

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Phil wrote:

Put a new valve, then when you buy a new tank you can use that one on it and not have to buy a another new one.
--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 :) 7/8

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wrote:

The new tank comes with the TPR valve installed.
He can replace the valve on the old one and they don't cost $40 as previously suggested. More like $10-15.
I'd evaluate how much damage could be expected if the 13 year old tank goes and suddenly starts leaking. At 13 years, it's at the typical life expectancy for a nat gas heater. It could be wise to replace when you can get a good deal, etc, as opposed to panic mode later.
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snipped-for-privacy@INVALID.com(Phil) wrote:

Since the tank is at least 13yo we decided to replace it. Up until a couple years ago our community was on a well water system. Heavy iron & mineral content. Wouldn't surprise me if the tank was filled 1/3+ with sediment. Our community switched over to city water, which is SO MUCH BETTER.
What really hurts is the cost. We are having Sears do the job. I know, I know but we have no choice. We need it done right, and since we currently have no income coming in, we have to put it on the charge.
Total is $775. that's replacement 30 tank, install, haul away, and permits. The water heaters for mobile homes must be built to certain codes and run more expensive. Can't use a residential unit in a mobile home application. It is on order, and will hopefully be installed Friday.
Phil (Original poster)
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wrote:

Sears Big big mistake uless heater/tank is made by some one ales

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several homes around here have had this problem and increase in water pressure was causing it. they installed a ballast tank on the water heater to fix it.. but i agree the valve may be deteriorated letting it leak.
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