Water Heater Drainage

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Hi All,
My water heater is sitting in a drain pan. I don't see how I can drain it without elevating it above the lip of the drain pan to attach a hose. It was that way when I bought the house. Any advice on what to do appreciated.
James
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4 letter word - HOSE
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On 2/5/2014 8:41 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Four letter word - READ Scroll up, and read the part in [brackets].
--
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Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
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On 02/05/2014 07:37 PM, James wrote:

If your water heater "lets loose" and dumps 40 gallons of water, the drain pan is not going to do you much good. I'd just cut a channel in it to get at the spigot. I have no idea why they'd put a drain pan in an area to block it. OTOH: Why do you want to drain it?
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On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 8:48:29 PM UTC-5, philo  wrote:

it

It

ated.


Most water heaters develop a small leak at first. That's what the drain pa n is for.
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On Thursday, February 6, 2014 10:12:19 AM UTC-5, jamesgang wrote:

in it

. It

ciated.

t


pan is for.
Or a bigger leak if you route the drain on the pan to someplace where the water can go without creating damage.
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On Thu, 6 Feb 2014 11:15:44 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote

It's in an inside closet along with my washer and dryer no floor drain or anything :(
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On Thu, 6 Feb 2014 19:01:08 -0600, Oren wrote

Yup. All in the same closet. Will post pics. Not sure what you mean about original thread :/ I accidently posted a new thread with the same topic. Argh.
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So ruin a garden hose to an outside room and run it out the window. If the end is below the bottom of the water heater, it will siphon out almost the last little bit of water, which might be bad if there is a lot of sediment. So don't go so low . If the end of the hose is 2 inches above the bottom of the WH, it will stop siphoning when the water in the WH is 2 inches above the bottom.
If you don't want the water to pour down to the ground outside, get a second hose and put a funnel in the mouth of it and let the first hose drain into the funnel. That will break the vacuum stop the siphoning at the level of the exit of the first hose, wherever that is. Hold everything to your window with some strings. Kite string is fine.
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On Friday, February 7, 2014 10:15:20 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:

In what you're replying to he's talking about a *permansent* connection to the drain pain in case it leaks, not about draining the water heater. So a hose out the bedroom window doesn't sound like a viable solution. And he cant't get a garden hose on the bibb to begin with, that was the intitial question, because it's too close to the floor and the pan lip is in the way.
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On Fri, 7 Feb 2014 09:35:16 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

I don't think he is.

But he knows better than you or I what he wants. He can surely figure out if my answer is a "viable solution". It's good of you to pre-read and pre-think for him, but I don't think he needs the help.

That wasn't the issue in the immediately preceding posts.
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On Friday, February 7, 2014 2:00:14 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

See, that's why you're wandering in the wilderness. You can't follow a thread:
Another poster:

Me:

James (OP):

And from that you don't think that we're talking about the permanent type of drain connection you have with many of these pans? He's said that the pan has a drain fitting, but it's not connected to anything. Good grief.

You dumb ass, he told you what he has and what the question is. He even posted a pic. And he further clarified that he was interested in draining it for routine flushing maintenance. And here you are 2 days and 30 posts later not understanding that the problem is he wants to drain the water heater and that with the location of the bibb and pan lip, he can't get a hose on it. Further, just draining it into the pan with your siphoning arrangement, aside from being impractical, I don't think is going to accomplish anything in terms of flushing it, to get deposits out. When I've done that, draining it didn't do much at all. You had to have the drain wide open and cycle the cold water full on and off, stirring it up. And even then it took a long time and a lot of water to get to the point where white particles were no longer coming out. I don't see how he's going to do that with your siphon idea. But, hell, I guess I should just shut up and let folks who can't even follow the quetion asked, the context, or the thread give solutions that would be a waste of his time.

Do try to pay attention. It was clearly the only problem that he asked about, starting in the very first post.
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On Fri, 7 Feb 2014 13:47:38 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote

Thank you for clearly stating what it was I wanted to do ie power flush and a way to get the water outside given what I have to deal with. This thread should have only been a few posts long :(
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On Fri, 7 Feb 2014 09:15:20 -0600, micky wrote

Got it. Thanks!
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On Thu, 6 Feb 2014 09:15:44 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

That works fine if you're home to see t he small leak, and not away for 2 weeks.
It works okay if not home when the big leak starts your WH is in the basement, near the sump pump, and not in an apartment with cement floors under the carpet and padding, so that the 40 gallons doesn't spread to the rest of your apartment.
It works mildly well if you're not home and the WH leaks into the apartment downstairs, ruining the ceilings and who knows what else.
Most people take 2 week vacations once a year so that's about one in 26 people who won't be home when the the small leak starts.

Right.
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Connect a drain pipe. Is it a round drain pan, intended for water heaters? There should be no need to elevate anything. If it's not round, it might just be a pan.
Every drain pan I've seen has a place close to the floor to attach a 2" drain pipe, plastic or something. Have you looked around the whole circumference?
You're right. Without a drain pipe, it will just drain four inches from where it would have without a pan. Although I think I have seen such an installation.
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wrote:

I missed this. Why do you want to drain it? I can't imagine a good reason.
My advice about connecting a pipe (or hose) was for when it starts leaking. .

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On Wed, 5 Feb 2014 19:53:10 -0600, micky wrote

Yeah there is a plastic drain pipe on the side of the pan. Missed seeing it due to its position.
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Where does it go? If it goes nowhere, you can still put a garden hose in it and tape it up with duck tape for draining, and run it to the window.
Don't open up the drain spigot so much that the hose can't handle it, the water rises to the top of the lip.
Or you can put the garden hose right on the threaded spigot.
Why do you want to drain the WH. Everyone here says not to do so, because the spigot will get clogged. I've never done it, in 31 years here.
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On Friday, February 7, 2014 10:19:38 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:

From what he's described, it doesn't go anywhere. He's apparently talking about just the fact that the drain pan has the connection on it to connect it to some drain if you choose to connect it.
If it goes nowhere, you can still put a garden hose

Duck tape? In a closet in a living space that also has the washer and dryer it it? Sounds like a prscription for disaster. If he wants to do that, he can surely make up the proper pipe connections to attache a garden hose to the pan. And if he has a lower point to route it to, it will work. Thes siphoning part I'm not too keen on as you'd have to somehow pefectly manage the flow rate out of the heater to equal the siphoning rate. If it draws air, he has to start all over.
Plus, I believe he indicated that the reason he wanted to drain it was to flush it. In which case, the pan thing is useless, because you want full force water coming out to wash the sediment out.

See above.

Did you even read the original question? Look at the pic?

I believe he indicated it was so he could periodically flush it.
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