Water Heater

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Jules wrote:

This seems to be typical of all water heaters; even the ones that have good brass-bodied valves use simple stop valves and not ball or gate valves which would be far preferable. IMHO the one mod that should be done to every water heater (if there's still time) is to replace the stock drain valve with a 3/4" threaded ball valve, a dielectric nipple, and a 3/4 MPT to male garden hose adapter. With a brass cap on it just for insurance. Otherwise you're wasting your time trying to drain out sediment (you just won't get enough flow, and the bigger chunks won't pass) and you run the real risk of having the valve fail open.
nate
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Nate, I wholeheartily agree with all you've said, but why the expense of a dielectric nipple? just curious...

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Helps the faucet not attract charged particles and thus corrode.
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On 12/27/2009 12:27 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:

Should I try to make this change on a seven year old electric water heater? I'm concerned that if I do, the old one will break off instead of unscrew, and I'm replacing the hot water heater.
I'd like to find the valve shown in the YouTube video, but this brand doesn't seem to be around any more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaVEIkZtXi4

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mcp6453 wrote:

That's a decision only you can make. I managed to get two out that were far older (bought a house with old heaters in it) but you may not be so lucky. You pays your money and takes your chances.

That appears to be exactly what I was describing above, simply packaged all together. just a 3/4" ball valve. Not that it's not worthwhile, it doesn't appear any different than what I was able to cobble together in the plumbing section at my local Big Box. If you like ordering online, check out waterheaterrescue.com
nate
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On Sun, 27 Dec 2009 14:11:15 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote:

Yes - for the record, I tried it with my 12yo one, figuring I'd replace the valve with something sane rather than the crap it had (and re-use it on the eventual replacement), but there was just no way the old one was coming off without cracking the plastic body.
cheers
Jules
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BTW, where is this super senior citzen located? Warning: if you say anywhere in the house be prepared for a group assault.
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They're right ... I spoke hastily.
I pull the anode out of a 15-20 year-old AO Smith, I had to finesse it, but it wasn't a big deal. Was a good read on the condition of the unit, too.
The drain tap is another matter. I've not used any. Take a peek at the cheap looking plastic thing on my Smith, I can imagine the problems described in the thread.
Next time I'll make no assumptions about eqp't I've not actually fiddled with.
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
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Very good chance the dip tube in the cold water inlet has rotted off.
I believe it can be replaced.
If so, only the top few gallons would heat up. This applies to a gas tank, but not 100 % sure if an electric has a dip tube

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FlaBill wrote:

I'll bet your dip tube on your inlet fitting has broken off. If you have enough headroom, you can put a new one in.
s
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Forget a electric tankless. Unless you want to upgrade your home electric service to 400 amps, with brand new service very very expensive. and even then if you live in cold area you may not have hot enough water.
it takes a lot of electric to heat water in a tankless. since it must heat water as it flows thru homes plumbing......
your far better off replacing old tank with a new one.
unless you have 5 grand to waste.........
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