Washing machine won't rinse or spin

We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water, but won't rinse or spin. It is model # LA5330XSWO.
Any idea what the cause might be, and how I might easily disgnose it or rule out some common causes?
With the right instructions I can replace a belt or most components, but I'm not skilled at diagnosing electrical malfunctions.
Thanks in advance.
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First thing you check is the lid switch. You can check it by using a jumper to short it and see if it rinses and spins then. 2 srews and 2 clips hold the cabinet on, 2 screws hold the switch in place. Not so hard
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Not a nice job trying to empty out that grubby soapy wash water; you can siphon it (often at expense of a mouthful, no worse I suppose than stealin...... Err. I mean 'siphoning' gas! And until you do the washer is heavy! Use a little pump if you can. Recent problem with our Kenmore was that the pump assembly had loosened one of its two bolts and it had sagged just enough for a slot in the main mechanism to not engage the arm which operates the valve that allows water from the bottom of the tub to flow into the pump. In our model the belt was fine and the pulley on the pump itself was turning, as it should be, all the time. But no water was reaching it due to above. First time in about 20 years we've had that problem. We did once, maybe 10 years ago replace the belt. Teenager overloaded the washer! Another problem was that on one occasion a contact on the timer became burnt up. In our model there is no 'pump circuit' as such. Pump-out occurs when the timer reaches certain points in its cycle and operates a solenoid which is part of the motor driven main mechanism; the solenoid then engages the main mechanism to the arm which operates the outlet valve on the pump, as mentioned above. Important point is; that whatever your model study the operational sequence/timing chart and circuit diagram often/usually on the back of the machine or under a metal plate. Otherwise you may just be 'poking' at it. Apparently there is a good appliance repair site on the internet?
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wrote:

You can pre-fill a siphon hose, then (if necessary hold your thumb over the end, and) turn the ends down. No sucking on the hose is necessary.
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The washer fills, then agitates, then the control knob continues to move as if it thinks activity is taking place, but the machine does not move into rinse or spin cycles.
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On 15 Apr 2006 06:00:03 -0700, "Al"

You should have said this before. I don't think the timer runs when the lid is open or the switch is open.
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Al wrote:

Hi,
I got LA5330XSW0 to work for me.

Fills and agitates but won't drain or spin? What happens instead? Goes dead, hummmmmms only??
If the washer will fill and agitate but stops dead at the drain and spin modes, check the lid switch and lid switch probe. http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N406 Standard dryer door/washer lid switch kit, 3-wire, with hardware.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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On 14 Apr 2006 10:08:26 -0700, "Al"

Does it agitate?

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most likely a bad saftety top door switch, designed so you dont get your arm ripped off during spin out
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Thanks, hallerb. Is that the same as the lid switch mentioned above?
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yeah lid is safety top door switch, run machine till it fais then use a screwdriver, pen or other small thin item and try tripping switch by pushing it down inside the case nterlock switches although necessary are a major source of troubles
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I checked the machine and I believe the lid switch is the problem. My switch only has two wires connected to it, but the switch kits I see online all come with three-wire switches. Can I make use of a three-wire switch, or do I need to get a two-wire switch? Thanks.
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dwitches are cheap why not uy one from a local parts store, remove switch takew in with model number of machine.
in a pinch you can just bypass the swutchm connecting the 2 wires together, although thatrs a bad idea for safety reasons.....
DONT EVER PUT HAND IN MACHINE WHEN ITS POWERED ON!
The minimum shipping for the swutch will kill any costs savings from buying on line...
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Yeah there is only one lid switch and a little tab in the lid that pushes it. Sometimes they break from slamming the lid. Same concept as the light switch on a fridge or car door.
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Update: Thanks for the advice, folks! It was indeed the lid switch. A new one cost $21. Toughest part was re-installing the little booger. I could remove it by sliding it out just above the drum, but to re-install it I had to remove the cover of the entire washer.
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Update: Thanks for the advice, folks! It was indeed the lid switch. A new one cost $21. Toughest part was re-installing the little booger. I could remove it by sliding it out just above the drum, but to re-install it I had to remove the cover of the entire washer.
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