When I went out to put a load of clothes in the dryer the washer was full of water. It went thru the washing cycle but never moved past that. I moved the dial around and it will start washing at every mode but will stop and never go any further. It won't pump, rinse or spin. Could someone tell me what the problem is and is it expensive to repair.
TIA
Quite likely the timer mechanism is gone. Unplug it from the power supply before working on it.
If your washer has one of those older electromechanical time, most likely since your setting is by a rotary dial, unscrew the control panel and take a look at the mechanism. The timer's wire harness has keyed connectors, so it is easy to replug the unit correctly. Rotate the dial it for a few times and see if the timing tabs or the gear teeth are missing. The tabs and gear are plastic and some of the broken parts may even fall out. Shake the timer to see if there are any broken parts. If the timer is faulty or broken just remove it and bring it to the appliance parts shop for a replacement module. Its not repairable or certainly not worth repairing. Its a long time since I bought the part for around $50 (I think)
Hi,
No mention of washer make, model#, approx age??....but some direct drive style washers ( some Kenmores, Whirlpools ) will fill and agitate only but will not spin or drain if the lid switch/lid switch probe is bad.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid
"If you can take it out just bring it to the shop and ask the partsperson if that timer module is OK or needs replacement. "
Now that'a a new one. And how is the parts counter persons supposed to figure out if the timer/control unit is good or bad?
If you can take it out just bring it to the shop and ask the partsperson if that timer module is OK or needs replacement. Else Jeff's diagnosis about the lid switch sounds likely. It is a safety interlock switch that won't allow the drum to spin when the cover is open (ie switch is open)
That was my first thought, too. Look at the lid to see if there is a plunger that depresses a safety switch,. If there's a switch and no plunger (unlikely), glue something like a dowel there as a replacement. If there's a plunger and a switch, try pressing the switch down with a screwdriver or a pencil. If it works, that's your problem. I kept a machine going for years with a bit of plastic glued to the top of the switch for bulk. When the switch itself finally broke, it was not an expensive part, just had to pull the skin to get at it.
Like I said in my first post. The timer motor works as it does cycle through the initial program. The electrical parts work. When you rotate the dial it will feel "broken" like having missing gear teeth or timing tabs. The turning pressure will feel "funny" with sections that feel loose and empty. When I took out my timer module some of the broken tab teeth fell out. I took a look inside the module and sure enough I could see where the tabs had been stripped. A parts person who handles such parts on a dialy basis will know at once what feels right and what feels not right. His visual inspection will confirm the problem.
The control panel has two screws holding the bezel. Undo them. Pull out or unscrew the dial knob. There will be two screws securing the timer module to the control panel frame. Unscrew those, unplug the wire harness and the timer module can be removed.
You and k hit the nail on the head. After reading your message I went out and checked the plunger/switch lid and the plunger was there but the switch thingie had fallen down on top of the tub. Looked as tho it had rusted out. Appliance repair guy coming Monday. Thanks to all for their response.
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