Washer won't spin

Hello all,
I have a Kenmore washer series 90 and when it gets to the spin cycle, well, it won't spin. I lift the lid and close it back and then it starts spinning. Also, I can reset the dial and it will spin.
Many thanks to all who respond.
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Might have something to do with the control board.... could even be the belt... but that doesn't explain why it works after opening and then closing again
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suspect something in the safety switch circuit.
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I got a 60series Kenmore. The timer is going to shit. I have to manually turn the knob from cycle to cycle. The cost of a new timer is not worth the price. It seems Kenmore is notorious for timer problems from what I have heard. I just keep watching for a deal on a new washer. Slamming the lid is probably advancing the timer. If you are handy, remove the timer and spray some lube in it. It helped mine, but only for a short time. If yours is not as worn as mine, you might get years out of it yet. Spray with a silicone lubricant, not WD40.
Mark
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Hi,
Model#? Kenmore is made by several different companies.

If yours turns out to be a Whirlpool built direct drive Kenmore....this will be like yours...
A copy:
Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: This machine is a forward/reversing style of washer. The motor drives one direction to wash, stops, reverses and goes the other direction to spin and pump. The timer is responsible for cycling the motor back and forth. As the "direct drive" name indicates, there is no belt on this machine, but it has a coupler between the motor and the gear box. Most ( not all ) direct drive washers are a neutral drain washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the water and then the timer pauses ( stops the washer ) the washer so the neutral drive in the gearbox can reset for spinning, and when the timer allows the washer to start back up again the pumping will continue and spinning will occur. You should be able to see the pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.
Quick tips....Slow or no spin....
Lid open. Lid switch defective. ( Very Common problem ) Lid switch disconnect plug open. Clothes between basket and tub. Wiring harness. Weak clutch. Timer switches. ( possible not allowing the pause required for the transmission to set up to spin ) Motor. Cam driver on basket drive broken or basket drive weak. Spin tube. Clothes between basket and tub. Notches in drive block worn out and not engaging basket drive shaft. Broken motor coupling.
-You- may be manually creating the pause the timer is suppose to do by lifting the lid.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Yes, my 60series Kenmore is a Whirlpool built model. I found that out when checking the price of the timer.
On 28 Aug 2004 04:54:28 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (jeff) wrote:

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jeff wrote:

This is more than likely the case. Sears and Whirlpool washers (at least the ones I'm familiar with and possibly other mfrs as well) will not "shift" to spin without a pause. First hand experience here. (I have put PLCs in both sears and whirlpool washers to do fabric testing - I had to add this pause to get them to shift into spin)
As jeff says, when you lift the lid, the safety switch causes this pause.
What should happen: When washer is agitating, then motor stops and then starts in reverse direction. Only the pump will turn. Motor stops, pauses, then starts again in reverse direction and both pump and tub will be turning (spinning).

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Casca wrote:

in the door lid is not making conctact with the switch that is under the lid..... i had this problem and thought that the probe was worn..but the problem was the switch...... it was wearing and going lower inside the switch as time went on..... a new lid switch fixed the problem..... when i checked the old switch it seemed to work as it checked out with the meter by working it, but it would not work on the washer..... probably the same problem.....
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On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 13:27:09 GMT, " snipped-for-privacy@sprynet.com"

If it is the lid switch, there is a simple way to test it. Just connect the two wires together that go to the switch. If that solves the problem, replace the switch, Or, as I did, just leave the wires together. That switch is only for idiots who are stupid enough to stick their hand in the washer during spin cycle,
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