washer drain hose length

Would it b possible to 'merge' two 5' footers to make one 10' feet long? If so, explain please.
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Chuckle- I had to do that in this place, since the gray water stand pipe on the wall turned out to only be connected to the floor drains. To make it to the wall collector for the septic, I had to buy another length of the corrugated hose and tie them together with a 2-ended soft plastic barbed connecter and a couple of stainless hose clamps. Took a couple of washer cycles of hot water, and a couple of tightenings, before it stopped weeping completely.
aem sends...

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Typically use a 3/4" brass nipple about 4-6" long. Marked the center along the length so you know how far is will sit into each hose. If is to tight, wet it down with soapy water to facilate insertion. Use two hose clamps on each side to insure no leaks and no slippage. You get get everything at a Home Depot or plumbing supply
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Typically use a 3/4" brass nipple about 4-6" long. Marked the center along the length so you know how far is will sit into each hose. If is to tight, wet it down with soapy water to facilate insertion. Use two hose clamps on each side to insure no leaks and no slippage. You get get everything at a Home Depot or plumbing supply >>>
ThanksJGolan, it worked perfectly...btw, I made the purchase in Loews:)
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I would just replace the line with a single longer one
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least not on any of the brands the local big-box carries.) Each manufacturer (who usually makes multiple nameplates), had a proprietary tapered snap-on drain connector, the better to make them self-installable by idiots and/or minimize install time for the store delivery kid. Only goes on one way, etc. I'd prefer a threaded fitting, where I could hang whatever I wanted on there, but that ain't the way the world works any more. And of course, at the big-box, they only stock the special hose in one length, since that covers 90% of the installs. Good thing sump-pump hoses and fittings are adaptable to extend things....
aem sends....
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Typically use a 3/4" brass nipple about 4-6" long. Marked the center along the length so you know how far is will sit into each hose. If is to tight, wet it down with soapy water to facilate insertion. Use two hose clamps on each side to insure no leaks and no slippage. You get get everything at a Home Depot or plumbing supply >>>
ThanksJGolan, it worked perfectly...btw, I made the purchase in Loews:)...>>>
I spoke too soon. I did make the attachment but did not use it till this morning wash and water came out of the connection I made. i don't understand it..I used the clamps and tighten the screw all that I could. Can't see how I can make it any tighter...anyway, the puzzling thing about this other than the water leaking bad at that connection, but i was using the presoak load..never knew that water would come out of a hose drain during that mode. I assume that it loads up the washer and the cloths just idle there until I am ready to agitate it...why would water come out? This washer is about a year and a half old..so we're not talking antigue.
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barbed plastic connector. Once both hoses and the connector get hot a few times, they sorta form to each other. Mine weeped for the first couple of loads, and I did have to tighten the clamps a couple of times. That was 9 months or so ago, and it has been dry as a bone since then.
aem sends...
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Don't know about the presoak question, but that is why I recommended the barbed plastic connector. Once both hoses and the connector get hot a few times, they sorta form to each other. Mine weeped for the first couple of loads, and I did have to tighten the clamps a couple of times. That was 9 months or so ago, and it has been dry as a bone since then.
aem sends... >>>
What is a barbed plastic connector? What does it look like? I called GE and the tech told me that the hose needs to be in an upward loop ( at least 3' ) for it to not leak like in my case. They suggested to get a "Anti siphon clip". Don't even know what it looks like. Apparently my leak happened because it extended in a horizontal position at about 1 and 1/2 feet high.
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Try http://www.jgbhose.com/Data_Returns/detail_coupling2.asp?id 835&cname=New+Age There's a picture, though you don't need one with barbs as pronounced as those
You should be able to find them at Lowes or HD in their plumbing dept., Just tell the clerk ya want a barbed connector for washer drain hose.
You don't need to get too technical with this, all your doing is connecting two drain hoses, right?
They (the drain hoses) are usually made out of a harder rubber material that's hard to compress. I'd bet if you tried to tighten the hose clamps some more it will stop or slow down to a stop.
If you use'd the type of screw clamps that looks hexagonal, you can use a 5/16" socket on them to aply more tourque to tighten the clamp.......Like ameijers said earlier it'll take a few cycles to soften up the rubber so it can 'set' on the connector.
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and the cloths just idle there until I am ready to agitate it...why would water come out?<<
If you think about it.........The presoak water becomes 'grey water'.
Wouldn't it be better to start your 'wash' with 'clean/fresh' water?
Sky
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You can connect two drain hoses, especially if they are rubber. Just go to a hardware store and ask for whatever parts you might need. Sometimes, if you have a parts list for your washer, there may be a listing for a connector. Whirlpool makes one for their rubber hoses, and you can ask for help at an appliance parts store.
Most washers, except for GE, can take a generic hose, so it might be better to buy a length that you need rather than joining two of them. Be sure you get an actual drain hose, rather than the stuff you might see at Home Depot. Reason: It isn't uncommon for rubber hose to kink; real drain hoses usually have some sort of ribbing or wire running through it for added support.
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