Value of a Kreg Jig

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On 8/22/2011 6:02 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

Agreed. For DIY bookshelves, especially first attempt with limited skill set, slotted 2x uprights with 5/4 shelves spanning around 30" each, is the painless way to go. All you need is some sawhorses, a skilsaw, a couple bar clamps, a good square and straightedge, a chisel, and a hammer. If you can use the entire end of a room, like the living room in a no-fireplace cookie cutter, entire thing can be jam-fit with shims, and you won't even mar the walls. (Although in earthquake country I would still tie it off with screws into several studs, up high.) If you can't go wall-to-wall, 1x8 stiffening rails screwed to top and bottom of back will keep it nice and square.
And it knocks down very quickly for moving. I showed a lot of people how to make these in my college years. You can use fancy lumber with a fancy finish, or cherry-picked framing grade with wiped-on walnut stain, and get acceptable looking results.
--
aem sends...



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wrote:

I like it knockdown. I'm impressed by the cam lock connectors. If I ever made another shelf set I'd use them for the frame, and pegs to set the shelves on. Flexibility. Used cleats on my big one, and that locked in shelf heights. I saw one I design really liked where the sides were continuously grooved and the shelves edges rounded. You could pull the shelf out and move it up or down in 1" increments. Lots of routing/molding head work, but it looked neat and handy. But there's all kinds of ways to do it, and if pocket screws work for you, go for it.
--Vic
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Vic Smith wrote:

Yep, but if 16' means a 16' wide built-in unit with face frames and whatnot, a pocket hole jib will be quite helpful.
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you use the pocket screws for the case and face-frame,not the shelves. (unless you're making shelves with a reinforcing edge.)

16 foot long shelves will sag quite a bit,and will not hold much weight. :D
plus,it would not look very good. better to build a couple of smaller cases.
--
Jim Yanik
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On 8/22/2011 5:23 PM, Pete C. wrote:

I would buy the $40 kit like this one at Lowes.
http://tinyurl.com/3ucd8mb
You can buy the $30 clamp in the $100 kreg kit for around 5 bucks at Harbor Fright, works fine for this use, but it's not really needed.
http://tinyurl.com/3px524s
I would buy the $100 kit if I made 3 16' bookcases every day, 6 days a week, with face frames.
The $20 kit for rare use, the $40 kit is perfect for occasional and even routine use. For book cases, pocket holes would be good for the face frame, if using a face frame.
Dry wall screws would work, but poorly. You want pan head screws or washer head screws for pocket holes. The bugle heads on drywall screws would sorta work on very hard woods, but would be hard to control depth on soft woods and would be prone to splitting the wood. I would never use drywall screws in pocket holes, unless you could find pan head dw screws, and you can't:-)
--
Jack
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Pocket-hole joinery *IS* a conventional woodworking technique, dumbass limey! What a clueless jerk.
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