> I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
> replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation
> do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have
> know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns)
> putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
> HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have
> at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to
> UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.
> And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
> 2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
> structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
> another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.
Didja take down the drywall, inspect the studs, and put it back up? It
would be exceedingly strange for the drywall paper to be damaged and
have no other damage. Your amazement at the nature of the damage
suggests you don't know much about termites. Having ten year old
damage, and seeking repair advice prior to selling suggests you are
inclined to conceal. Forgive us for not "divining" your true motives.
> Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
> from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers
Not much guessing entailed - seems obvious.
> long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might
> a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation
(being as he
> IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding
> to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
> than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.
Here's an idea - leave the drywall as is and let the buyer know what
they are getting. I sold a house, in need of a roof and a paint job. A
little dingy inside, but well cared for. The house sold quickly and the
price was good. The buyer knew exactly what they were getting, down to
the moldy spot on the bathroom ceiling (caused by a new leak in roof,
which was repaired) and the hairline crack in the dining room wall.
> Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
> amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.
Don'e let the door hit you......
>>>I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
>>>House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
>>>have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off
>>>drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
>>>inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits &
>>>the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of
>>>4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
>>>the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
>>>be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
>>>might something else be better?
>>Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
>>how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
>>Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
>>mud and sand everything even.