Unsticking a frozen back brake cable

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Doug Miller wrote:

If it has fish oil or vegetable oil in it, it'll get sticky as it oxidizes. If it's all mineral oil or lard oil, it won't. I'm not sure that it matters for this application.
I need something that will penetrate and will lubricate a little so I can get the cable to move in the housing. Then I'll probably pull it out and inspect it, and then not be able to get it back in.
PB Blaster, huh? Do I get that at a gun shop or Ace Hardware or an auto parts store?
Bob
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wrote:

It doesn't, so it won't. Did you look at the MSDS?

I wouldn't expect to find it at a gun shop, but yes to the others. WalMart too, maybe.
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snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in wrote:

WalMart does have it,that's where I bought mine.
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Jim Yanik
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zxcvbob wrote:

If you already have WD40 just use it. The advantages of other products for this application aren't worth a trip to the store. If the casing itself isn't starting to crack and the visible parts of the cable, both ends and an inch or so inside the casing are good shape, it is probably safe to reuse. If you do, be sure to check the parts of the cable hidden by the brake lever frequently and carefully to make sure the cable isn't starting to come apart or fray at that end. As others have said, you will need to grease the cable too.
--Betsy
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I can see you haven't ever used PB Blaster, and are totally uninformed. I have put it on "frozen" bolts, and left it overnight. The next day, I could have gotten it loose with my hands, but chose to use light pressure from a wrench, pliers, or visegrips.
You should try something before you comment on it.
Kroil is good, too.
And both are the kinds of things that a can of it lasts five years, but when you need it, nothing else will do.
Like an impact driver.
Steve
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On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:08:01 -0700, "Steve B"

Yes, PB Blaster and Kroil are both far superior to WD-40. Betsy is correct however, that in this case, if WD-40 is on hand, there is no reason to drive somewhere and buy anything else for THIS situation.
This is not a frozen bolt and nut. It's a sticky bicycle brake cable.
WD-40 is more than up to this challenge.
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Yeah, him and his girlfriend. Ouch! Good thing they had that cordless phone nearby.
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no,it's just not worthwhile to use. and it does gum up over time.
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wrote:

I doubt you'll convince SmittyTwo of that. His mind seems to be made up. And you may not have any other opinion than his.
But, I do agree. WD40 is for temporary lubrication, cleaning, and other uses, but it does gum up over time, or is just a sand magnet.
Steve
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On 7/17/2010 2:39 PM, Steve B wrote:

ACTUALLY, it's not a lubricant at all. It's a water displacer.
And it is certainly not a penetrating oil.
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On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 18:35:17 -0500, Steve Barker

I guess sinse rust is hydrated iron oxide, there could be a case made for the water displacement function getting rid of the "rust" and turning it to "iron oxide"
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wrote:

English and physics and chemistry aside, it works good for some "stuff", and not so good for other "stuff".
RIP, George Carlin re: "stuff".
Steve
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wrote:

Well, I know that and YOU know that but .........
I got a thing a while back about 99 uses for WD 40. Some of them were quite unique, and I'd like to find it again and print it. One of the things was wasp bites. If I get any this summer, I'll be trying it. I got stung one day last summer by five of the lovely little creatures. All at once. Ow!
My BIL told me a story of how he used it at banks he did service work at to "rejuvenate" the granite tops. He saw that the lady was watching him, trying to find out the secret. She asked him what it was, and he just told her, "Oh, you have to have a federal license to buy this particular stuff." Made some nice bucks just with some liquid WD 40 and a terrycloth towel.
Steve
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On 7/17/2010 10:04 PM, Steve B wrote:

Kerosene has always been a tried and true wasp sting remedy. That is why wd40 works in that area. That is all it basically is.
Another thing that will remove the pain immediately is clorox. Just a dab on your finger touched to the sting and you're good.
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That old nonsense again. That simply isn't true. I posted a link to the MSDS for WD40 earlier in this thread; go read it. It shows clearly that WD40 is *not* "basically" just kerosense.
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:45:07 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Yes, but Steve knows that if you get a wart from touching a toad, WD-40 will remove it.
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:45:07 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

If you look at the msds and look at kerosene it is pretty darn close. You will notice 45-50% of WD40 ia "aliphatic hydrocarbons" Well, guess what. Paraffin is an alkane, which is - get this, an "aliphatic hydrocarbon" Kerosene, or lamp oil, is 100% paraffin Hydrocarbon - which is an alkane, which is, by definition, an"aliphatic hydrocarbon", so 45 - 50 % of WD40 IS basically KEROSENE. Up to 25% of WD40 is "petroleum base oil" - which also describes Kerosene - as it is petroleum sourced - and a light oil. A further 12-18% is "low vapour poressure aliphatic hydrocarbon" - which again is basically "Heavy Kerosene"
So chemically. roughly 80% of WD40 can accurately be described as "basically Kerosene"
Slice it any way you want to.
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On 7/18/2010 6:45 AM, Doug Miller wrote:

Doug, i've always trusted and looked forward to your responses on electrical questions. And will continue to do so. But on this topic, you're off base. Sorry.
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 12:13:49 -0500, Steve Barker

Doug is 100% correct, and has told you where to find the incontrovertible truth on the matter.
There is NO kerosene in WD-40. None, nada, zilch.
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No, Steve, I'm not. You don't know what's in WD-40. Go read the MSDS and find out. Tell us what's there.
Hint: it's not kerosene.
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