U staples

While I was constructing my compost pile I had to attach the rabbit fencing to the boards - so I used U staples. Those have got to be the hardest things to insert into a board. 2 of the worst aspects in a fastener, 1 they are round and uneven meaning you have to hit them just perfectly in order to drive them in, 2 they are small so you have to hit them with your fingers right on the impact surface.
Do the staples with the flat hammer spot at the top of the "U" go in easier, or are staples like this just a big pain to propery hammer in? If so I really feel sorry for people who have to string barbed wire fences.
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For barbed-wire fences, there is a staple driver tool: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200310777_200310777 that is called a Goldenrod Hired Hand™ Staple Driver. It holds a stick of staples and is hammer-powered so that no fingers get smashed. It's $50, which is fairly expensive for a bit of rabbit fencing.
I have a pneumatic medium-crown construction stapler that would do the trick, but it's way too expensive other than borrowing from a friend, unless you already have one. Used to attach sheathing to framing in home construction.
On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 21:26:28 -0700, "Eigenvector"

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On the few occasions I've been faced with this, I simply held the staples with a pair of needle-nose pliers. If you have a LOT to drive this may be a pain, but you won't have to buy an expensive tool.
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So it's not just me then. I was beginning to wonder if I was doing it the wrong way or something. I can't fathom doing this for more than a few quick jobs. Trying to hold the fencing in tension, while driving a very small uneven staple into wood with a hammer just isn't fun.
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On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 08:55:19 -0700, "Eigenvector"

Guys who used to do this all day could stick them in the wood with a finger and drive them home with one sharp whack of the hammer and they looked beautiful. I am with you, I never got the trick down . I did usually end up with a purple thumb before I got the needle nosed pliers out.
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Now that's another problem - stretching the fence while stapling it to lumber. It should be possible to get adequate tension between corner posts, connect at the corners, then attach to the line posts. A single stretch should be sufficient since the tension is set once the corners are stapled. Usually a two-man job.
Eigenvector wrote:

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Eigenvector wrote:

The staples work well for their intended purpose - attaching wire fencing to rounded fence posts. They were not designed to go into boards. That said, hold them like roofing nails - between the first & second finger tips, palm up, with the thumb out of the way. One tap to set the points into the wood, remove the hand, and one or two solid hits to drive it all the way in. The more times you hit it, the more it will go askew.
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