I took my car in for some brake work. The mechanic said I needed new pads, which would cost $235. I told him that was fine and to do the job. A few hours later he calls me and tells me I need to get my rotors turned at a cost of $59 each. I declined.
What a stupid way to suck more money out of a customer. Everytime I drive my car the rotors are turning. And this moron thinks he can get another $120 out of me for doing something my car already does all by itself.
Troll-0-Meter (C) (R) No Reaction --> 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
I bought new ceramic pads (all four wheels) and new rotors (4) from Autozone with a 4 year warranty for just under $275. Did the work myself, not that hard having a lot of prior mechanic experience. $235 FOR JUST PADS is a ripoff. And additional $59 per rotor turn is equally a rip off. That's $500 friggin dollar for a brake job and not replacing the rotors but turning them. Did the mechanic wear a mask and carry a gun?
after reading this morons second paragraph again, i realize we are talking troll here.
I had front pads only replaced for $100. At 50000 miles. Rotors were OK. What firm did you go to? WW
A few years ago I went to AutoZone to get parts to do a brake job on a Taurus. The counter guy suggested I borrow the caliber compression tool since the calipers on the Taurus need to be "screwed in", not just compressed. I had never run into that before.
It was a free loaner unless you kept it for 30 days. After that they put $35 on your charge card and you own it. The kit was brand new and worked so well that I kept it.
No more fumbling with c-clamps for "normal" calipers and there's a set of adapters for just about every sized caliber that needs to be screwed in.
Well worth the $35 that I paid for it.
Anytime I have had a brake job I made sure we included rotor turning in the quote and job. It is part of the process which if not done might work out OK, or might end up in surging brakes.
Chalk this one up to lessons learned and remember to get a quote that includes rotor turning (surfacing) next time.
And yes, the price sounds high.
RonB
You do realize that you are replying to a troll, right?
Jon
yes, and i stated that.
(a day ago)
"Jim Yanik" wrote
Impact drivers were made for this, also. A couple of taps with a hammer is sufficient. But you knew that.
Steve
Where are you getting rotors resurfaced for "zero"?
I just took the (ventilated) front rotors from my wife's Saturn to be machined last week. The man at the counter asked me if I wouldn't rather buy new ones for fifteen dollars and fifty-two cents each.
I'm sure the people who wrote the factory service manual for that Saturn would be surprised to hear that -- the manual gives specifications for resurfacing both the ventilated front rotors, and the solid rear rotors.
The "around here" you referenced in your first sentence is evidently a fantasy world of your own construction.
Because he doesn't know what he's talking about. Don't worry about it.
Oddly, both the authors of the factory service manuals for my cars, and the mechanics who have machined rotors for me in the past, don't agree with you.
Stick to subjects you know something about. This isn't one of them.
After you install new rotors, get the old ones machined, oil them up, put them in the boxes the new rotors came in, and put them on a shelf somewhere. Then you'll have them ready to install the next time you need the rotors machined.
Repeat as needed until the rotors are no longer machinable.
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:iulum4$2t6$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:
They were used on my Acura Integra GS-R,and I have them on my Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V.
What else is used to hold on the rotors when the wheel is off?? wouldn't bolts would stick out,interfere with mounting the wheel?
BTW,there's probably two other holes in the rotor "top hat",that those screws thread into for helping push the rotor off the axle flange if it's rusted on. so you don't have to hammer on the rotor to loosen it from the flange,or use a giant "gear puller". :-)
Sheesh - don't get THIS subject going again!!!!!!!!
Nope, just real world everyday experiences. The napa charges most people $16 to resurface already off the vehicle rotors. I do them myself at the store for nothing.
Better stick to electrical advice there Dougy. I got you on this topic. 30+ years of ASE certification teaches a guy things.
On Sat, 02 Jul 2011 12:32:39 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:
If he's getting shop prices for new rotors vs turning, turning will be cheaper due to rotor markup. If you do your own work, it might or might not be cheaper to buy new, depending on the car. In my experience new rotors is the way to go. For my GM cars new rotors are $15-40, depending on brand. I've looked at the cheap and the more costly, and they look the same to me, so I go with the cheap. Basically they all come from the same Chinese rotor plants. Both front rotors cost less than a good pad set. Front rotors for my daughter's Mitsu Eclipse cost about $30 each. You have to price by the car. Wouldn't think of cutting old rotors. And I've seen BS advice that brand new rotors should be turned. Can't remember where. No way I'm going to give a new factory rotor to a kid to shave. I just clean the preservative off them. On my Celebrity I put new rotors on when they pulsed due to warping. That was at about 150k miles. I had put about 3 sets of pads on the old grooved rotors, starting at about 50k miles. Worked fine, braked evenly, but of course the grooves got deeper and the last pad set wore pretty fast. Some cars might not tolerate that. If I knew how cheap rotors were I'd have replaced them earlier, then I wouldn't have had to bang them off with a sledge. With cheap rotors now, cutting rotors is a vestige of the past when a rotor cost +$100 in 1980 dollars. To prevent warping torque your tires properly and don't run through puddles with hot rotors.
--Vic
Pro mechanics always use an impact driver (hammer operated). For $6 or so they cost, anyone can find some use for them. Its been that way for
40 years or more.Joe
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