Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg

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Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator /ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
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in message Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator /ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/durala st-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
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On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
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On Sun, 02 Oct 2016 18:02:04 +0000, Stormin' Norman

The regulator is the squarish grey part fastened to the back of the alternator with the 4 little bolts in the picture on the second page.
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good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

r/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true

internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

ast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
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On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
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all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

r/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true

internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

ast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1

I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
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On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished?
At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle.
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Stormin' Norman has brought this to us :

Probably Repair/Replace because some people get nitpicky about the differences between them.
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all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

r/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true

internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

ast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1

alternator.

issue,

right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.

Remove & Replace
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On Tue, 04 Oct 2016 13:39:24 +0000, Stormin' Norman

Generally speaking R&R is remove and replace.
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Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
--
Snag



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wrote:

Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay someone else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh , and his total was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor was a lot more than $70/hr . Can't see that job flat rating more than 1.5 hours , if that . Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a spark plug out of the head - probably crossthreaded and/or partially stripped at some time in the past . Total for parts was under a hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a new coil pack . Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent machining guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace rather than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for less than 1500 bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I understand that not everybody does . -- Snag
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wrote:

Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane. Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Is that Rotax an OHV or L-head ? I had a bunch of stuff in the way , and this V6 is one of the DOHC 4 valve/cylinder models . Spark plug is top dead center in the combustion chamber . About 6 inches down in a hole ...
--
Snag



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wrote:

OHV 4 cyl opposed. Those dohc crossflow heads with the plugs down insude a well are a BITCH to do thread repairs on!
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On Tue, 04 Oct 2016 17:29:19 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Napa is the most expensive auto parts company around, and many of their parts are low quality. I have avoided that company since I began driving in 1968. The other company to avoid is Carquest. They have cheaper prices, but their parts are absolute garbage.
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how

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator /ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/durala st-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1

alternator.

fixed

noticed

parts

was

. My

125-150

alt .

I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going.
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On Thu, 6 Oct 2016 11:42:56 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

And you were farther ahead paying someone else to do the job than you would have been putting off your own work to do it yourself. That occaisionally happens even to me.
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