My dishwasher went out in my house and I found that the previous owners didn't cut the hardwood floors off at the opening. They just ran them under the dishwasher. No instead of a 34" opening I have 33 1/2. My question is what is the best way cut the hardwoods back to flush with the opening so that I can install a new dishwasher. I was thinking of using a router but I won't be able to get it into the corners.
Thanks
James
James,
I'm not sure I understand your problem ,but if you need to remove the floor where you intend to put the dish washer, chisels may help.
Good luck, Dave M.
I think I'd go with a circular saw, set to the appropriate depth (cerefully!) You won't get to the corners, but it'll get quite close to the edges. Now, make lots (say 10) of cuts to break up the flooring, and the remmainder should be easily removed by use of a chisel to cut it off. Now, you've got the edges to do. Cut the rest off working from the cut edge with a chisel.
Think about what you just posted. What is removing the floor in the dishwasher space going to gain you? Unless you are going to jack up the counter top, the hole you will be sliding through isn't going to be any taller. The finish floor is supposed to run under the appliances, so they don't get trapped by the edge, and so leaks are immediately obvious vs. running along the plywood below the finish floor. If the old dishwasher came out of the hole, the new one should fit back in. AFAIK, they aren't making them any bigger than they used to. Did you try playing with the leveling screws to see if they will go shorter?
aem sends....
That is how it was supposed to be installed. under the dishwasher and all other (free standing) appliances.
DO NOT REMOVE the floor under the dw. you will gain nothing by removing it. most (if not all) dw's fit in a space as small as 32 1/2" h. what kind of dw are you replacing it with?
don't forget to install the "steam reflector plate" on the underside of the countertop if your top is laminate or solid surface.
BTW who ever installed your base cabinets did NOT gauge them properly. (they should have been placed on 3/4" cleats) it was NOT the hrwd floor installers fault.
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This is interesting, I have never seen this in installation manuals. I installed Mills Pride and the manual only instructs the user to level the base cabinets. Do you use 3/4" cleats regardless of the type of the floor in front of the cabinets?
EJ
that is assuming you already have a finished floor down.
this is when installing cabinets before finished floor. the cleats would be the same thickness as the finished floor this way you can tuck the finished floor 1/4" under the finished toekick and cabinet sides and the finished height from floor to countertop would be 36" high. that IS the proper way to install cabinets.
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