Trim for cupboard doors?

Hi all,

I have plywood cupboards, which I have sanded, primed/sealed, and would like to add a shaker style trim, about 3/8" thick and 3" wide, and paintable.

I asked at the building supply and their only suggestion was to use 1/4" birch ply good one side.

Do you have another suggestion that I could ask for at the next store I go to?

Is there a specific placement for the wooden knob I am going to add or can I stick them anywhere?

Reply to
CathyLee
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The birch ply would leave an unacceptable edge for painting, etc. You need some kind of solid wood.

My recommendation would be to buy some inexpensive pine door casing, baseboard or moulding at HD. It is a little thicker than you want; 1/2" vs 3/8", but simple to cut and apply. And it is paintable. If you know someone with a thickness planer, they can take it down to 3/8" for you. A good lumberyard will also do it for a fee.

Some hobby stores (Michael's, e.g.) sell strips of basswood 1/4" thick,

3" wide. But this material is very expensive for your purpose.

-Frank

Reply to
Frank

You're talking about the doors, right?

Plywood also comes in 3/8" if that is the thickness you want. However, how are you going to attach it? Can't glue unless you undo your prime/seal work. If you do, do you have sufficient clamps? Screws from the back? Not really easy to screw into 3/8 ply without going through, even harder (damn near impossible) with 1/4. Nails/screws through the trim into the plywood door? Could but there really isn't much thickness even in 3/8 ply to countersink screws and small nails aren't going to hold very well.

Then there is the matter of cutting your trim to the correct lengths so the ends of the top & bottom pieces (rails) fit tightly against the sides of the vertical pieces (stiles). You could cut all a smidge long and trim the excess flush with the edges of the doors but do you have the ability and capability of doing so? If you do, it would be just about as easy (and better) to get some 3/4 poplar and make your own rails and stiles grooved for an inserted panel of 1/4 ply or hardboard. You could also have rails, stiles and panels made at a custom millwork shop. You would then assemble, finish and hang. Finishing is easy, the others less so unless you have experience.

IOW, I think it is a bad idea. But if you *do* do it, you'll need to work on the plywood edges so they will look acceptable. Plywood has layers of wood in alternating directions which means you will have end grain on any edge. You need to sand, fill, sand again so that you have an edge that won't feel/look rough and suck up paint. Then you can prime and paint. ___________________________

You can put them where you want them as long as you avoid the cabinet knob placement police.

-- dadiOH _____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

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dadiOH

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nospambob

CathyLee:

C > I have plywood cupboards, which I have sanded, primed/sealed, and would C > like to add a shaker style trim, about 3/8" thick and 3" wide, and C > paintable. C > C > I asked at the building supply and their only suggestion was to use 1/4" C > birch ply good one side. C > C > Do you have another suggestion that I could ask for at the next store I C > go to?

I would think a veneer would be better. Adding a quarter-inch to the cabinets seems like quite a bit!

C > Is there a specific placement for the wooden knob I am going to add or C > can I stick them anywhere?

Wherever you think they look best! :) The closer to the hinge side of the door the more difficult it will be to open the door. I presume you are doing the entire kitchem; be sure to be consistent with the knob placement. All of the upper cabinets (above the counter) have their handles on the side opposite the hinges, a couple of inches from the bottom of the door. All of the lower cabinets have the handles on the top. The drawers have the handles centered.

- ¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

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barry martin

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