Tried to replace Thermostat, now A/C nor Heat works (or fan)

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Well I'm not sure what else I could have blown. This is the only visible fuse I see.. I guess I could have popped a transformer, in that case I'll need my technician (which hopefully comes out monday) to repair.
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Me neither. It's outrageous. 4.30 instead of 30 or 40 cents. There's probably a way to take apart the bad one and use a regular glass or ceramic fuse. I'm sure they tried to make that hard, but...
This is why I save things like the caps from fuse holders when I throw something away.
To answer a later post, it's not that there are more places for fuses. It's that if the fuse blew, there was likely a reason that it did. Before one blows too many fuses, it's probably better to open the case and solder in a tradional fuse holder that takes cheap fuses. It can use it's wires to go outside of the case. I also collect circuit breakers from tv's that used to use them, and they sell them now too, for when fixing blows the circuit over and over again.
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Thanks to everyone for their help. I got it up and running WITH the new t-stat just a bit earlier, too.
-R
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Those fuses were a ripoff from Trane-- about $4.00, and I have never seen them available anywhere but a Trane parts dist. A few years ago they finally quit using them and went to the flat car type that are about 50 cents. Also, can't see the stat from here, but the white wire should probably go on W2, if there is one on the stat, rather than W1. I had a call several years ago where a customer had installed a programmable stat on a Trane HP himself during the winter and hooked white to W!. I bet he was real pleased with himself at how much warmer air it put out, but was probably baffled why his electric bill went up instead of down. Anyway, first warm day, the A/C was running, but blowing out air about room temp. The heat strips were running any time the comp. was. Hooking the white to W2 fixed it.
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lp13-30 wrote:

Thanks for the info. The stat has a W and a W2. However W and Y are jumpered for my particular setup. It's blowing colder than room temp air for certain, but I'll keep it in mind if I run into any problems.
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lp13-30 wrote:

Wait a minute, people ever read the manual and tunr off the system when doing something like this? I just don't understand.
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you don't use the ohms function to read anything in that circuit. you really need to call someone who knows what they are doing to find and fix the problem.
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I was using the OHMS function to find if the fuse was blown. Since it wasn't reading 0.00, rather "OL" it was. The continuity test also didn't beep (where as the new fuse obviously does).
I was using the multi-meter exactly how it should have been used.
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HVACTECH2 wrote:

What range on a multimeter would YOU use to check a fuse?
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