Trianco 15/19 oil boiler starts fine then just goes to burner lock out after 3 1/4 mins running.

Any ideas? (I'm in UK) Boiler has a Bentone electro oil Inter10 pl10/4 pump/burner assembly This symptom doesn't seem to be listed anywhere. (commonly seems to be cutting out within 30 secs or so). The tank filter has not been changed
in 18 years(!!) but when fitting a new plastic tank 5 years back paper filter looked perfectly clean and no sediment in botttom of glass bowl so I left as was.( probably rinsed it in fuel) Photocell is clean, fuel is flowing ( not sure if fast enough, firing rate stated as 40ml/minute and would certainly seem to easily match that) . Some sediment appeared in the first jamjar of oil after disconnecting flexihose at boiler. 2nd jamjar seems to be clear. I assume this may have been debris from the hose perhaps although it was a browny colour and looked like tiny bits of chipboard !! No evidence of water or air in these samples. I guess I should just change the tank paper filter although it still looks clean and whilst a second run off of oil at the boiler end produced some more sediment that which came directly out of the filter bowl outlet was clean. My user notes for the boiler state that there is an internal filter for
the pump but I have no idea where this might be if anyone can help in the pump filters location and what to undo to look at the oil pump itself I'd be very grateful, thanks PS The nozzle is original I think and would like to replace. How do I establish which danfoss series ( ie H,EH, S,ES orB) nozzle I need, I found the size specification somewhere but not to hand at the moment.
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It has always been my experience that burner cutouts are caused by oil flow/atomization interuption.
This leads to two areas to check, filters, and nozzles
My standard pratice is to replace both, once every year. Here in the states, (Pennsylvania) filter and nozzle set with tax comes to $10US,......cheap insurance.
The pump filter you asked about is located as an assembly to the pump. Where you disconnected the 'flex-hose' to obtain your samples..... You should see a round end that has 4 bolts on newer, and up to a dozen on older models, take that apart, but go slowly, you don't want to tear the gasket. Inside you'll find a metal strainer basket, clean/reinstall
Nozzle: Series/GPH are usually stamped on nozzle.
If you can afford to have unit down for a while. Take nozzle/electrode assembly out, It can be taken out by flipping the transformer....go to your supplier get matched replacements for both, and reinstall. Believe me, after 18/13yrs. their both shot. electrode set $20US
Make sure you have measurements for the electrodes, the tips need to be a particular distance from the nozzle, for the spray to fire and maintain fire, until ignition. you can rotate/move them before clamping, then final setting can be done by bending carefully if needed.
And pick up enough heating oil conditioner for tank, their $15US for two 8oz.bottles that'll do a 275gal. tank here.
I'll check back later........have ta' go now, an install a mower deck belt.......Sky
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sky wrote:

Thanks for your reply, couple of Q's. If I replace the nozzle with an identical spec item will I need to reset pressure and air valve settings? I thought not but the one reply I have just had on a UK based newsgroup seems to sugest that it would be necessary. I'm hoping to avoid as I dont have the instruments. (Reason I have done my own vacumming out of boiler for last 14 years is that that was all my manintenance man ever did, never once saw a gas anlalyser etc ! :-) Re pump strainer, only 2 allen style bolts on my UK 19kw/65000bthu pump /burner assembly, does removing these reveal the pump workings underneath? Is it easy to reassemble? Just worried about springs or watever jumping out of a high pressure pump and not knowing how to reassemble!! :-) Thanks
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settings? I thought not but the one reply I have just had on a UK based
newsgroup seems to sugest that it would be necessary. I'm hoping to avoid as I dont have the instruments.<<
No, I would think not also, I never have.

manintenance man ever did, never once saw a gas anlalyser etc ! :-) <<
If the maint. man was from oil co. then there was misconceptions about service.......Here, the analizing is included with the cleaning, the two go hand in hand. At least with my Oil Co. I still have the man come in about every third year to clean and check with the instruments.

underneath? Just worried about springs or watever jumping out of a high pressure pump and not knowing how to reassemble!! :-) <<
There has to be more than 2 bolts check:
http://heating.danfoss.com/PCM/Presentation/CMS.asp?CMSUID 8881F8-8035-46A0-816E-61F6815CD4AE&MenuUIDA74BB7-45ED-401D-8829-247B4A3C96F8&MenuIDT
If that doesn't work, use one below and drill down to oil pump page....
http://heating.danfoss.com
Click on pump model in menu then on tech page.......From what I saw there where no springs, etc.. The pressure is created by the speed of the motor driving the oil through the pumps inner workings.....did ya ever see a cars oil pump? it has a five lobed rotor in a four lobed stator... the cam action is what produces the pressure. If your talkin' 'bout those two large bolts at upper middle, they'r not part of bolting the pump together..... look at the four smaller one's around the perimeter.....The bolts for dissasembly are always located near/at the perimeter.

Check around on that main/home page I didn't check.....but there might be better diagrams located eleswhere.
Some others: http://www.bentone.se/eng/index.html http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Catalogue.asp?PrGrp 2
Later........Sky
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sky wrote:

http://heating.danfoss.com/PCM/Presentation/CMS.asp?CMSUID 8881F8-8035-46A0-816E-61F6815CD4AE&MenuUIDA74BB7-45ED-401D-8829-247B4A3C96F8&MenuIDT
Thanks for your help Sky, noticed you've visited the uk diy group and posted re my Q. I've just posted this response there now. I''m having problems!! Any comments welcome
-------As posted to UK DIY----

turned out there was masses more of the brown debris in the pipe run from tank to boiler. ( I wonder if this was the paper filter disintegrating although not visible in the bowl).As it was there before not sure why the flow rate went right down. I think flow rate is now back to as before ( blew through from disconnected pipe at tank end and then mucho jamjars of purging. (got debris to flow by removing hose at boiler which allowed for lower drain off point ). After seeing all this crud I felt sure the poump strainer must have plenty in it. I took the plunge and undid the 2 allenbolts and removed the pump assembly. (MSLAO32) The circular strainer gauze was visible and was covered in crud. Cleaned up and reassembled. Did not see any gasket at time of removal, just a large o ring which remained in place on the remaining part of the pump body. Connected up and oh dear, leaking badly from pump, not sure exaclty where from. I recieved a number of rubber gaskets with my paper filter but felt the originals were fine and bedded down nicely.I also found one gasket which MIGHT have dropped of the pump body at the time of removal approx 6cms in diameter, hard to see where this might fit though. So my Q is what seals the pump where it comes apart? Should there be a removable gasket or the O ring? TIA PS Trianco tech told me my nozzle would be a 0.6 80EH , it turned out to be an 0.6 80H. trianco tech said the direct replacment would not be an issue and the EH was a "tighter tolerance" component. If thats the case how come they still supply plain H's then? Just confused ( and a bit skeptical about tech support comments)
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You might want to carefully give the motor a few taps when it is in "lock out" mode to see if the motor spins up and the furnace fires. I've seen first hand where the motor gets weak and causes the furnace to stall or not fire. It is a cheap check, kind of like an automotive starter check, unless of course you rap on it to hard and crack something! FWIW I use a screwdriver and tap/rap the plastic handle end on the motor.....
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