Treated Hardwood ?????

How come I have never seen any treated hardwood? Is it not possible to get the treatment into the wood, or what?
I am setting a shed on cement blocks, and would like to make a solid base out of wood, but treated softwood tends to flex and warp. Hardwood stays pretty straight. In fact I have it on oak planks now, but they will rot in no time.
I already know someone is going to tell me to pour a cement footing, and that would be ideal. The only problem is that according to local law, if it is cemented, or if there are posts in the ground, it is considered a permanent building, and I will be taxed for it. If it sits on timbers or blocks, it is movable, and is not taxed. So much for stupid laws, but I will keep it movable.... I will probably put some wind anchors in the corners though. like the ones they use on trailer homes.
Jerry
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snipped-for-privacy@NOT.com wrote:

Did you ever see those old 1920s and 30s Frankenstein movies where the townspeople show up at the castle with pitchforks, axes and torches? If you ask this question in rec.woodworking, this will happen at your house.
Treated softwood flexes and warps because it's usually wet. In your case, put down four or five inches of gravel, rent a vibrator and compact it down. On top of the gravel, put down those six by six pressure treated landscape timbers and put your oak on top of them. PAINT the oak first. The object it to keep everything as dry as possible - rot won't happen if things are dry.
I have a similar situation, but my needs are smaller. I want to put a generator down without a foundation. I plan on using two of those parking lot cement dividers with 6x6s on top to mount the generator. Should work like a champ! The local masonary place sells the dividers for about $25 each but they're heavy, very very heavy.
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White oak instead of red oak for this use.

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same reason you dont see those little green tree shaped air fresheners in ferraris.
look into redwood. its pre treated by nature.
but first, take a deep breath and relax. people always go nuts over the word tax. before you do something silly, find out exactly how much extra tax you will be charged. it may be 20$ a year. it may be 200. it may be 10. find out what it will actually be and make an educated decision. dont just blindly hate the system and end up building a substandard building with tie downs and all that crap just to save a couple bucks a month and avoid 'paying any tax at all costs'. not to mention all these costs for expensive hardwood flooring and tie downs are gonna cost you something too.
randy

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dont
with
expensive
Next year I plant to build a shed on back of my garage. The permit will be about $10. The tax increase will be less than $10 a year. Not worth avoiding for the potential problems of no permit.
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snipped-for-privacy@NOT.com wrote in

The warping is directly dependant on the moisture content and how it is nailed up if wet. Depends on where you buy it too. I had to completely rebuild a deck built with Home Depot wood. I don't buy wood there anymore. Pressre treated wood is usually lower grade to start with. Buy from a reputable lumber yard and nail/support it properly and you shouldn't have such problems/.
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There is a wood from Malaysia that is used on trailers for heavy equipment. Naturally bug resistant. Sorry do not remember the name, you will probably not like the price either.
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equipment.
There are a lot of good rot and bug resistant wood, but very expensive. Ipe comes to mind. very hard, very heavy. A 4 x 4 will be about $60 or more.
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Hardwood is not pressure treated. Untreated woods that are suited for outdoor use include white oak, teak, cedar, redwood and cypress. These resist insect and water damage. If you decide to go with oak, make certain you use white oak and not red oak. You will still need to build a floor support base from PT 2x4s or 2x6s. Another option is using PT ply on top, much less expensive than the woods mentioned, and probably easier to install.
On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 01:07:44 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@NOT.com wrote:

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