I've never replaced a garage door torsion spring and one of my two is
26" 1.75 ID .2187 Diameter RH spring is broke.
I probably should replace both at the same time, correct?
Reading through a couple of "how to" websites the replacement doesn't seem
all that difficult - just dangerous in a couple of instances and time
For those of you who have accomplished this yourself or have had a pro do
what would you recommend? I'm pretty handy (worked framing, plumbing,
[no garage door experience] finish carpentry etc for 7 summers) but I'm not
there are any additional tips/tricks (words of wisdom - I've seen the posts
you could provide?
This site spells it out pretty completely .. .. ..
I did mine last winter, and it went very smoothly & only took a few
hours. You really should do both sides together. They have a limited
number of cycles, and if one broke, the other probably isn't far behind.
The only "specialty" tools you'll need are a pair of 1/2" diameter X
18" long winding rods. Just go slow and easy & it's a pretty simple
On 8/13/2005 11:49 AM US(ET), djay took fingers to keys, and typed the
I've undone a few. Just open the door fully and then hold it in its
fully opened position with a pair of visegrips clamped to the rail at
the bottom edge of the door, so the door cannot fall down by itself
after you remove the spring.
Then just undo the outer nut on the eye hook that holds the back end of
the spring to the brace.
You might tie the end of the spring around the rails so it doesn't swing
down and break something after you have removed the nut from the eye
hook. Then, while holding the spring, untie the spring from the rail and
lower the spring by hand. After installing the new spring, you will
probably have to play with the placement of the outer and inner (lock)
nut on the eyehook to get the correct balance for the door.
I had a spring break twice, so far, in 29 years.
You could still lift the door but it was a
grunt with only one spring assisting. Each time
I was gone, so my wife called the people that
installed the door. The worker changed both
springs the first time but only one spring the
I've never changed the springs but retensioned
them because my door is wood with Masonite panels
and changes a lot in weight from hot dry summer to
wet winter. Make sure that the bars you use to
wind/unwind the springs fit well because you don't
want a slip. I used two 1/2" round bars I already
had and they fit perfectly.
Get two (three if you have a double garage) saw
horses and a plank(s) so you can walk back and
forth. If necessary make the saw horses the
height that you can work comfortably. Saw horses
and planks (or better, torsion boxes of 3/8
plywood and 2x4's works good and you will use them
a lot in house maintenance.
As long as you have the time, work carefully tie
down anything that can move, you will have no
problems. You don't really have to replace both
springs. Contrary to what others said, I don't
think that one spring breaking indicates the other
is likely to also. Springs don't all receive the
same temper so some break and some don't with the
same use. Currently, on my door, one spring has
about 10 years of use and the other has about 15
years of use. Being retired, I would probably
change it myself, unless the charge to replace it
is really high.
Of course an engineer wouldn't agree. Engineers
depend on the fact that a single item is like
every other item. The fact is, that even with
tight controls on manufacture there is usually a
large of amount of difference among individuals.
If the life cycle of 95 percent of the items is
longer than the item will be used, who cares if
some items have a 50 percent longer life time.
Springs from the same batch may be pretty similar,
but who knows how much mixing of batches there is.
One simple example: the spring on the left side
of my oven door broke after 5-6 years and I didn't
fix it. The spring on the other side was
sufficient to keep the door closed but wouldn't
hold the door in the "half-cock" position. As a
result the door was mostly left in the full open
position for cool down. That increased the
tension and yet that spring is still working after
29 years of use. The first spring had a useful
lifetime of 6 years the second had a lifetime 5
times as long.
The first oven door spring broke in the "hook" section?
I would argue that the failure of a tension spring in the hook section
is rather different than the failure of a trosion spring in the spring
btw the time needed to replace both springs is not twice the time
to replace one spring. Better to do both & get it over with.
every other item<<<<
a rather broad statemtent & surely not correct..................
Doesn't matter what kind of spring it is, the
point was that the failure rate of springs is
highly individual. I didn't tell you what part of
the spring failed so what makes you think it was
in the hook section?
Whether one replaces both or one spring depends on
a lot of factors. If you have a technician do it,
then have him replace both. If labor is a problem
for a do it yourselfer, then replace both, but
if labor isn't a problem it doesn't make sense to
replace both. Let's say you replace both, you
will feel really stupid when the replacement for
the one that didn't break needs replacement in a
Yeah it's a broad statement, but the assumption is
consistency or at least a certain amount of
consistency. Don't read "identical" for what I
said which was "like." There is a lot of
variation allowed with "like." For really
important things, engineers recognize the
variability and use standards that would be met
under minimum conditions. For example, you use
the maximum span stated in the boots for a Douglas
fir 2x10. The amount of deflection will be
(usually) within the standard, but the poor piece
timber will deflect a lot more than a really high
the spring failed so what makes you think it was
in the hook section? <<<<
Contrary to what you might think, people are fully capable of floating
a hypothesis without complete information from you.
Perhaps I may have missed your qualifications as a spring expert.
All I've seen so far is your willingness to bash a group that brings a
lot to modern society.................
btw I have a lot freinds who are engineers, none of whom are
Sure but building an argument on a false
hypothesis is a lot worse than just asking a question.
Experience, oh yea, a bit of reading.
I didn't bring up the idea of engineers. In fact,
my engineer response was primarily toward your god
view of engineers rather than any animosity toward
the engineers I know. However, they make mistake
at about the same rate as everyone else.
I might be mistaken but I believe your slam at engineers was first in
And please point out my comment that your characterise as
"your god view of engineers"
I must have missed it & again I believe anything I said about engineers
came after your slam.
I reviewed the thread, and you are indeed
mistaken. Kinch brought up engineers first. I
never slamed engineers, just stated basic facts of
materials science. However your misinterpretation
and following remarks did lead me to suggest you
had a god-view of engineers.
Cheers back at you.
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