Toro CRC 2450 snow blower

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Hello All,
This winter I've been having some problems with this snow blower. It's about 10 years old. Have never done any service on it. Did check the spark plug this summer but it looked good so I didn't replace it.
It starts fine. The problem is loss of power. It just doesn't have the power to work correctly.
Got a new batch of 93 octane gas tonight thinking maybe it was bad. Problem persists. I also replaced the spark plug about two weeks ago.
I'm wondering if it needs a top end repair. Just had a top end repair on my Honda CR250 moto cross bike this summer.
Do 2 stroke Toro snow blowers need top end repairs after 10 years of usage?
I'm kinda betting on it.
I did try running it without the gas cap thinking of air blockage.
In the past this thing works great. Goes through anything.
Any input? And if it does need to be repaired any guess on the cost?
Thanks
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Did it fail suddenly, or has it been getting weaker gradually. If suddenly, maybe a sticking valve,
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Brent Bolin wrote:

Hi, My guess is you have fuel delivery problem. Too rich or lean. My Toro is older than yours. Still runs OK.
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Brent Bolin wrote:

Speaking of air, have you checked the air cleaner? Maybe try it for a couple minutes without the air cleaner to see what happens. You might also try running some carburetor cleaner through it.
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My two stroke Toro doesn't have air cleaner. Figures that all the dirt is under snow, so the air is clean in the winter.
Try replace the spark plug anyway. Any brand except Champion, they had some quality problems. Most likely a carb problem, they clog easily and run lean. My snow blower, I was forced to install a fuel filter, the tank was full of specks of black stuff floating around.
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Christopher A. Young
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By any RARE chance did it begin after adding gas that was never used in it before? Maybe gas that was E85? May not even be available in your state.
Not sure how current or accurate this is.
http://e85vehicles.com/e85-stations.html
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I've heard terrible things about the new ethanol blend. In my vehicles, it gets lower mileage. Might also under power your snow blower. E-85 is useless, except for cars totally designed for E-85.
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Reason it popped into my mind was someone up north recently had starting issues (vs OP's running issues). It was a Toro 2 cycle. First thing guy at Toro asked was if by any chance E85 got into it.
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Clean exhaust,Tighten head, base and case bolts, Clean carb by disassembly (not carb cleaner spray or additive), replace fuel line and make sure tank is clean. Since it starts right up, it probably isn't a compression issue, so teh top end is probably ok.
Hank
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-snip-

-snip-
Personally I go straight from 'try a spray carb cleaner and run a tank of treated gas' to "Replace the Carb". http://jackssmallengines.com / probably has a carb for $50 or so - You can futz for days and end up buying a carb anyway-- just buy it first and read a book for 2 days while it is en route.
Jim
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When you say no power what happens, it it running full rpm 3600? Does the carb power circuit not keep it ful rpm under load? As a carb gets varnished up it can be necessary to adjust the air mix. A weak , going bad electronic ignition module will make it not have full power and thats comon. A compression test will tell you what life is left before wasting alot of time. 10 years if alot of snow was done is alot.
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On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 19:33:05 -0800 (PST), Brent Bolin

Mines a lot older...no issues. See if you have a fuel filter between the tank and carb...mine does and I replace it every 5 years or so.
And make sure the drive belt isn't slipping. You can adjust the tensioner, but after 10 years probably ready for a new belt anyway.
HTH,
Paul F.
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wrote:

A lot of people are replying with "check carb". This is a 2 stroke, there is no carb. There is a reed valve I suspect.
Yes I can see maybe cleaning the exhaust filter, didn't think of that. It's interesting the same poster mentioned tightening head bolts. I have seen some oil/water spillage after it is put away and snow melt in the garage.
Will also check if there is a fuel filter, I didn't see one when I pulled the skins off this last summer. Also didn't see any kind of air filter believe it or not.
Will take a look at things again this weekend when I have some time off. You know things always seem to break when you need them. Chicago is getting dumped on at the moment.
This snow blower is a real work horse and I want to keep it. Wasn't sure about the rebuild frequency for 2 stroke small engines.
Little more info about the symptoms. It starts right up. It doesn't seem to go to full RPM. When you try to blow snow it just bogs down. It doesn't sound like an ignition problem.
Thanks gang...
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There is no carb, thats a joke , right. If you think that you dont have a clue and wont be able to diagnose anything. So , check carburator to see if choke releases and adjust needle valves to get it to run 3600 rpm, start by turning the high speed needle valve in to see if rpm increases, then adjust it slowly.
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Sorry. Don't pretend to be an expert on engine repair.
After looking at some of the PDF documents for this model it does have exactly what you say "a carb".
I don't think it's a carb problem, but could be. I'm inclined to believe it's a fuel filter problem. The PDF documents also show this. Most likely I didn't see this when I pulled the skins.
As far as the exhust cleaning I was thinking baffles. I don't think it has baffles. And I don't think there is an air filter.
A quick replacement of the fuel filter(56-6360) should tell me something. This is a Toro part number.
Do you think a generic part from HD or local hardware store could be used. Ordering just this part will cost more in shipping then the part.
Thanks
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On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 08:10:42 -0800, Brent Bolin wrote:

Probably. We've got a good farm supply place in town though and they're very good at stocking parts for all kinds of different small engines, so if you have somewhere like that they might have exactly the right bit on the shelf.
cheers
Jules
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After looking at some of the PDF documents for this model it does have exactly what you say "a carb".
CY: When I got mine that "runs fine" the carb clogged. I dissembled the carb, and it ran for another ten minutes. Finally I put in a fuel filter, which did the trick.
I don't think it's a carb problem, but could be. I'm inclined to believe it's a fuel filter problem. The PDF documents also show this. Most likely I didn't see this when I pulled the skins.
CY: Might have a filter. If not, I was able to cut out some fuel line, and put in a universal small engine filter.
As far as the exhust cleaning I was thinking baffles. I don't think it has baffles. And I don't think there is an air filter.
CY: Mine has a muffler of some kind, and no air filter.
A quick replacement of the fuel filter(56-6360) should tell me something. This is a Toro part number.
Do you think a generic part from HD or local hardware store could be used. Ordering just this part will cost more in shipping then the part.
CY: I'd measure the ID of the fuel line, and the diameter of the fuel filter you find at the hardware. It is very much likely to work fine.
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On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 08:10:42 -0800 (PST), Brent Bolin
<snip>

I've replaced mine several times. There's nothing special about it. IIRC, it's 1/4" fuel lines from tank to filter and filter to carb inlet. I'll bet any small engine inline filter with the right size fittings would work fine.
Paul F.
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For best results, use original Toro (R) parts. Or, so they say. I can't say as I can tell any difference. 1/4 inch sounds about right.
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My old toro has no visable filter, An inline filter before the carb is best and are sold anywhere for about 1$, if the Toro filter is built in junk it and go inline before the carb, first try adjusting the air fuel mix from the needle valve on the carb, this is what has gone out on 2 of the Toro paddle wheel blowers of mine, if you have one screw, try leaning it first, a 1/4 turn in. If no improvement go out to richen it 1/4 turn and be sure the choke pulls open. If you have 2 screws one is idle and one high speed air mix. It could be many things but start simple. At 10 years a 10$ compression tester is what I would do first before spending 30-50$ on a carb. Carbon can buildup at the exhaust port on the head, Ive never cleaned one but in manuals its recomended if you loose power, use a wood stick when cleaning at the head. The reed valve I think is in the cilinder head or cilinder, its not the carburator. The carb has a float and bowl so it should rev for awhile even with a bad filter, so id guess its the air mixure, it is to rich and turning in the high speed screw leans it. A weak ignition module can also make it run poor
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