Tool handles

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I have some old shovel and other tool handles. They have lain in the sun for a good bit, and are dried, and cracked a bit. What is a good way to fix them? I have sanded them down with an electric sander and coarse paper. I would like to fill in the cracks, and some of them have places where the wood is splintering along the grain.
What's a good way to doctor up these good old tools?
The new stuff is crap. I haven't bought a rake lately that the head hasn't fallen off after less than a week.
Steve
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If you use them hard every day, the oil and sweat from your hands polishes them and keeps them oiled a bit like an old handrail.
I assume you weren't planning on making that method work. Boiled linseed oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits soaked in should get you about the same place. Maybe wrap them with rags or something to really soak them to start.
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Linseed oil and rags? and what does he do after the fire?
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Ive done this method with good sucess. If I have anything..its a surplus of hot and dry.
I bought a joint of 2" PVC and an endcap, stuck the handle down the tube and filled it with the mixture and let it soak for a day. Then hung it to dry while the next handle was in the tube.
Remember..handle first, then fill. Reversing the order screws up your tennis shoes.
Gunner
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On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:50:34 -0700, Gunner Asch

Exellent advice. Linseed oil is great on timber, lousy on tennis shoes.
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on 9/17/2007 7:32 AM Avery said the following:

It's real yucky in salads.
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Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:14:00 -0700, "SteveB"

Replace the cracked handles. Apply varnish or other finish to preserve handles in good condition. Sharpen hoes, shovels, edgers etc. Wipe metal parts with a small rag dampened with kerosene, repeat yearly.
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If you want to fill the cracks with something modern, you probably can't beat good old body putty. If you dont like pink, you probably could mix in something gray or brown (enamel paint).
Then re-sand and seal with any good sealer.
Grummy
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wrote:

The "Bondo" folks have figured out that they can sell more of that stuff in Home Depot than in the auto shops. The stuff they sell in HD/Lowe's isn't pink.
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on 9/15/2007 9:26 PM snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net said the following:

As I remember, Bondo does not work well with shocks and flexing, and most tool handles suffer from both.
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Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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wrote:

Bondo is a very weak polyester mix, and polyester is a lousy adhesive, to begin with. As you say, I wouldn't use it for anything that flexes.
Epoxy is a great deal better in taking flex, and it's one of the best adhesives on wood. And you don't need a fancy epoxy for a job like this. Some Elmer's epoxy glue and some fine sawdust will do it.
-- Ed Huntress
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On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:46:39 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:

Is there any way to mix Bondo so that it stays workable for a few minutes, rather than setting up instantly?
Or, does anyone know where I can get epoxy putty? I'm almost sure I've seen this stuff, but I've been to the local Kraken, Pep Boys, and Home Depot, and nobody seems to know what I'm talking about. I seem to remember seeing something in a blister pack, which was two small strips of putty-looking stuff, light and dark gray - when you mix them, it works like putty, but hardens into epoxy.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Rich
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Rich Grise wrote:

Check your local plumbing supplier. They usually have epoxy putty.
Jim Chandler
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Try an industrial supplier - someone who carries the full "loc-tite" line. It is used for underwarer repairs, and for gas-tank repairs amongh other things.
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<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message wrote:

dags for marine-tex
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wrote:

Sure. (1) Reduce the amount of "catalyst" (everybody calls it the catalyst, but it's not -- the MEK stuff). But read the can and don't use less than the recommended amount (usually more than half of the "full" amount) or you'll have glop that will never harden. (2) Better: put the resin in the refrigerator for a half-hour before you mix it. Refrigerate only the amount you're going to use.

You can buy it at a marine supply or plumbing supply, or you can mix your own with ordinary epoxy glue (not "5-minute" epoxy, which usually is not waterproof) and sawdust.
A warning about epoxy: it tends to drool. You can put Cab-O-Sil in it to help reduce the drooling, but it's a characteristic of epoxy that's hard to overcome unless you load it up pretty well with the filler. Fortunately, for this application, you can use a lot of sawdust, which should solve the problem completely.
-- Ed Huntress
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wrote:

for hammer handles,the best,SAFEST way is to replace the handle. With patched cracks,you could get pieces/shards flying off under impacts. If you can't find an ash replacement handle,go to a woodcraft store and buy a large ash dowel and shave it down to size. Or buy a cheap wood handled hammer from Harbor Freight,and swap the handle into your antique.
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Jim Yanik
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SNIP...then you wrote......

Hey Jim,
I've got an antique axe similkarrly dealt with. I figure it is about 400 years old. It's had a least 8 new handles, and I myself just replaced the head once again, just a few years back. <VBG>
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
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wrote:

With a new head and new handle, that must be quite an antique.
Steve
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SteveB wrote:

...
Other than that, it's all original...
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