Toilet Tank Bolts -- Frozen - Removal

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Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.
Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting of walls.
One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as you could want.
Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.
Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut, (I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut, even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any ideas on what might loosen this thing up?
Thanks in advance.
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On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.
-- Oren
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
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Oren wrote:

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long, honking wide blade.
Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt combination, but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of / off of the nut / bolt.
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wrote:

Cut the bolt if it's like most toilets. Should be exposed because tank sits on the rubber gasket (aka spud washer). See:
http://www.smartplumber.org/images/tank_bolt_correct_way2-425x319.jpg
Reciprocating saw makes it a breeze if you have one. If not, get a hack saw like this:
http://www.electronics123.net/amazon/pictures/vtms1.jpg
http://www.abmtools.com/images/Saws_and_Blades/Han_Adj_Hack_heavy.jpg
Or the super cheap way toss some duct tape around one end of just a hacksaw blade and just saw. As said, it's brass so it's soft to cut.
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http://www.electronics123.net/amazon/pictures/vtms1.jpghttp://www.abmtools.com/images/Saws_and_Blades/Han_Adj_Hack_heavy.jpg
If your just removing the entire toilet, why do you need to take off the tank at all? Just unbolt the toilet from the flange on the flloor, unhook water line and remove.
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On 10 Aug, 05:07, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Watch out...I suggested that earlier and got what *appeared* to be a rather terse response.
I quote..
"You do it your way, I'll do it my way.
I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years, never kept them assembled when doing it."
I'm still not sure why, but whatever floats his floaters....errr...boat.
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If you are smart, you'll replace the brass bolts with stainless steel. "Brass" is usually crappy brass plating on steel and rusts way like mad. Even solid brass bolts aren't as good as stainless steel.
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On Fri, 10 Aug 2007 11:42:54 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I might use stainless in or around a boat and the ocean. For a crapper; why change my brass? They come in the kit at not additional cost!
-- Oren
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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Oren wrote:

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long, honking wide blade.
Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt combination, but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of / off of the nut / bolt.
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Why does it have to be dis-assembled for floor work and painting of walls? Once it's removed from the floor, neither the floor nor the walls are going to care if it's in one piece or two.
Replace the tank bolt that you removed, vacuum the water out of the tank and bowl and remove the nuts from the johnny bolts. Now with the help of a friend or by yourself, wiggle the entire unit off the wax ring and floor flange and carry it out of the room. Place it on the towel that's on the plastic bag in another room until it's ready for re-installation.
I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years and never once took the tank off the bowl.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

You do it your way, I'll do it my way.
I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years, never kept them assembled when doing it.
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- You do it your way, I'll do it my way.
OK
- I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years, - never kept them assembled when doing it.
Why not?
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on 8/9/2007 10:54 PM DerbyDad03 said the following:

Too heavy with the water in the tank and bowl. :-)
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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Remove water, and move the water separately. Put water back in, after moving toilet.
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
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Disassembly allows you to replace seals, gaskets, etc. Flush valve.
Keeping it in one piece may actually be easier. Is for me...
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
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On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 15:39:20 -0700, jJim McLaughlin

Puny! Grab a screwdriver... :-|
-- Oren
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
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jJim McLaughlin wrote:

So, why not drain the tank, stand up like a man, and grind off the head of the screw?
Then the grindings end up in the tank. <G>
has anybody got any

That's what they make "nut splitters" for:
http://tinyurl.com/2mbodu
Assuming there's enough room to fit it over the nut and you are willing to invest the time and a few dollars to get one.
HTH,
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin

I usually use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt between the tank and the base. Normally there's enough clearance to use a regular hacksaw, but if not, I just use the blade with one of those single ended holders. Or you can wrap the end of the blade in duct tape to make a temporary handle. Best to use a fine pitch blade. Takes 2 minutes tops.
HTH,
Paul
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Paul Franklin wrote:

I like that!
Awright. I have a fancy hacksaw thingy that has a handle like a pistol, no hoop, single ended. That'll work fine.
First thing AM.
Thanks.
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wrote:

I've never been able to get it in under 2:07. Amateur I guess... :-)
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