Toilet Repairs

OK, shot 25-year-old fill valve was removed after much drama (had to disassemble furniture around toilet; could not budge locknut and had to use bolt cutter). Installed (finally!) Fluidmaster plastic fill valve, which went perfectly fine on the last toilet I put one on, but not here. I can't tighten the dang thing. It seems there's a *heavy* foam insulation inside the tank and the old (metal) fill valve just got the tighten-the-hell-out-of-it treatment, making it sink into the foam. But with this plastic valve and a nylon locknut, I'm afraid to do that, given the strong DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN remarks in the instructions. I kept to the strict hand-tighten, plus 1/4 turn with a wrench rule. So what I have is a drippy fill valve.
Should I just tighten it more, reasoning that the foam will be crushed, easing any overpressure on the plastic? Or should I cut away part of the foam, so the plastic can make direct contact with the porcelain as designed? Or what?
It almost seems inconsequential that the standard oval handle on the shut-off valve more or less instantly crumbled on being grabbed by a wrench (had to, it was frozen), and the screw won't come out, so I'll have to have my brother sweat-solder a new valve in.
Am I the only one here who can contemplate almost any other project with an even temper, but the very thought of plumbing makes my blood pressure sizzle?
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based on my experience with this sort of situation in life you have two choices. you can either cut the foam now, making a nice seal and fit, or you can mess around with it a whole bunch fighting a drip every step of the way and end up cutting the foam anyway.
randy

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<< should I cut away part of the foam, so the plastic can make direct contact with the porcelain as designed? >>
Sounds like the way to go. A tad of silicone sealant might be helpful if the porcelain is a little wavy or rouigh. HTH
Joe
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