Toilet leaks at base.

Our toilet leaks at the base and rots the wood floor. We've pulled it twice now, cleaned the junction, replaced the wax ring, and reseated it. It still leaked. Now we've had the wood floor repaired from the water damage, and I don't want this to occur again.
Any advice?
The pvc fitting on the floor is a bit strange, it has an offset. Is that common? The foundation is concrete, so I can't exactly replace this, but I blame this for the fact that this toilet seems to get clogged a lot. The fitting is also not perfectly level, could that be the problem?
Are there special wax rings that might help prevent this problem?
Three Pictures (the resudue is from the wood floor repair, I have cleaned the junction well before reseating the toilet in the past):
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkymonks/UntitledAlbum/photo#5164051643511105762
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkymonks/UntitledAlbum/photo#5164051647806073074
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkymonks/UntitledAlbum/photo#5164051647806073090
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On Feb 6, 11:07 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Double up on the wax ring or get a toilet flange extension.
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jim wrote:

I second that - not many DIYers know that you can use 2 rings!
a
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The offset would be a I screwed up the measurement Item. They roughed in the water closet wrong the offset is how they fixed it. I would seal all the ends of the wood with caulking. I would use a flanged wax ring with plain wax ring on top of that your flange looks a little low ( I think they make a thicker one also ) Now hears the hot tip when you caluk the base of the water closet to the floor leave the back un-caulked that way if there is a problem the water will run out not just sit on the floor under the water closet plus you will see it. Another thing I do is I set the toilet flush it a bunch times slip a piece of paper under the toilet and make sure there is water then I caulk. Another thing I would do not really very conventional I would set the toilet without a wax ring trace wear it sits pull it up And seal the hell out of the wood underneath it, The problem is wood a water do not mix I myself do not recommend wood floors in kitchen or bathrooms you just asking for trouble but I'm sure a lot of people never have a problem .
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Sac Dave wrote:

Even with a tile floor, it's hard to get away from a wooden subfloor.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

Mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
  Click to see the full signature.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Fernco makes a rubber seal: http://www.fernco.com/FTS.asp but I don't think it will work with your offset flange.
As the other Jim said, double up on wax.
Another trick: Don't merely slap the wax ring on the toilet outlet horn. Heat an extra ring with a hair dryer to soften it. Dry the horn with the dryer too. Take a putty knife and smear the heated wax around the horn so it sticks like glue. The, take a fresh ring and squish it onto the prepared horn. Work it by hand to adhere tightly.
Measure to be sure the wax ring(s) extend far enough so it will be compressed when it meets the flange. Clean the flange and apply heated wax to it too with putty knife.
Offset flanges will indeed cause clogging. It's worse if the toilet paper is the newer soft style.
Jim
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On Feb 6, 8:07 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for the tips everyone. Agreed that the offset is probably compensation for a screw-up. :(
I never considered doubling up on the wax ring. I'll do that. So I just stack one on top of another? Any risk that it will deform into the water path when seating the toilet and disrupt flushing?
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Thanks for the tips everyone. Agreed that the offset is probably compensation for a screw-up. :(
I never considered doubling up on the wax ring. I'll do that. So I just stack one on top of another? Any risk that it will deform into the water path when seating the toilet and disrupt flushing?
No you wont have problem but what do I know I'm just a plumber. Good Luck TILE TILE TILE
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

No, should be fine.
a
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On Feb 6, 8:07 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Don't bother with the wax seals. Use a wax-free seal; Fernco makes a couple. They've very tolerant of movement, bad level, depth, etc.
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On Feb 6, 9:07 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You have a couple of things going on that are contributing to the problem. The flange is too low and it not being level doesn't help. Wood floors and toilets aren't the best combination. The wood moves and will wick up any water creating stains under the finish that you won't be able to get out. Red oak is particularly problematic as the tannins in the wood usually create black stains.
I'd install a toilet base plate (I usually make mine from Corian sink cutouts, but they're available for purchase), install a flange extension to raise the height and compensate for the out of level condition, and use a wax ring with a plastic horn on it.
R
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wrote:

new plastic horns work but you may have to trim the plastic horn to match the toilet out size or you just restrict the water etc
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