Toilet Installation Question - Drain Not Level

I am replacing a toilet in my parent's house (putting the same one back in). I removed the toilet because it was leaking through to the ceiling below. I had to pull out and replace six tiles, and I will be going back tomorrow to reseat the toilet, having given the mortar a few days to set.

When I took the toilet out, the plastic insert that comes with the wax ring was crooked, and I assumed that was the reason for the leakage. While I had the tile out, my father put a torpedo level on the top of the drain and determined that it was not level. I don't know how bad it is, because I hadn't really noticed. Based on the fact that I hadn't noticed, I am assuming it is not too bad, though. The drain is even with the subfloot, so there is the tile and mortar width between the bottom of the toilet and the drain.

There's the background, here's the question: I was planning on simply reseating the toilet with a new wax ring. Do I have to do anything to account for a slightly off-level drain?

Reply to
celticsoc
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Unless the drain is really out of whack, you shouldn't have to do anything. Make sure the toilet isn't sitting directly on (one edge of) the drain. There should be some space for the wax ring. You can also get wax rings with a plastic "funnel" sort of thing that goes over the toilet horn and inside the drain. I prefer these, if there is space for them. ...not a plumber, though.

Reply to
krw

, though.- Hide quoted text -

The plastic funnel is what was crooked. I have a new wax ring with a funnel as well. My only concern is that the funnel, if it get shifted, may cause a leak in the wax.

Reply to
celticsoc

though.- Hide quoted text -

I see your concern, but as long as there is a space in there all should be well. The only problem I've had is where the horn is actually sitting on the plastic piece. As long as there is space for the wax, it shouldn't leak. Also, make sure the toilet doesn't rock; shim as necessary. I have had to resort to "gluing" the shims in place with silicone to keep it from moving when the tile wasn't even.

Some run a bead of silicone around the toilet base but I've never seen the need. If you do, leave a gap at the back to let any water out (so you can see it).

Reply to
krw

Just to be safe, see if you can run a hose, or pour a pitcher of water down the drain and see if it still leaks. I don't think a wax ring that had a shifted funnel could have caused the leak, but since you have everything off, might as well test it now. The leak might be from the elbow or lead bend if you have one. If everything looks good, then it probably was the old wax ring. The new wax rings with the funnel are made pretty good.

If the flange is fairly straight, and a little off level, it should not be a problem.

Reply to
Mikepier

I must disagree with the other posters to date.

The flange should be above the finished floor 1/4 to 3/8".

If the tile was added after the flange was installed you need to purchase a flange washer/spacer. Lowes part number item #: 253224 Model #: 43646

shown on this page is an example of one:

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Then the wax ring will make up for any slight differences in the level of the flange. Be sure to use the can't leak kind with the sleeve. You could probably get away with use one regular wax ring and one with the sleeve but why take the chance for $5

Reply to
Colbyt

I thought that you could also get an extra-thick wax ring, or just add a second wax ring that does not have the plastic funnel to make up for the extra spacing due to the floor tile thickness.

Reply to
hrhofmann

one:

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Sure. Mine was 3/4" (backer + tile) below the finished floor. An extender (1/2") and normal wax ring was all that was needed. Yes, they make extra-thick wax rings, too. They make a mess if you don't really need them, though.

Reply to
krw

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