Toilet bolt replacement

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You know what happens when you ASSume....
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scott snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com wrote:

As others said, brass won't rust. Not the way you mean. Neither will galvanized steel as long as the zinc is in place. Hot dipped stuff is good stuff; electroplated, well...
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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Flange bolts are made with a special head to slide into the flange. I doubt that you will find a SS model.
If you choose to disregard the correct advice others have given, I hope you are the person who has the pleasure of sawing your overdone bolts out when the time comes that it has to be done.
Colbyt
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Scott,
Most have a plastic cap that nicely covers the bolt and washer. To me that looks nicer than a bolt head and washer, stainless or otherwise. YMMV
scott snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com wrote:

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Irregardless of the looks, I still won't put in stuff that's not built to last like brass or galvanized hardware. I might consider the brass stuff if it were solid brass, but tha brass coated stuff is crap.
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You mentioned "looking nice", so I was referring to the covers atop the bolts, irregardless of what they're made of. To me they look nicer and more sanitary.
As for the "crappy coated" brass bolts, they will more than likely outlive you or your use of the terlet.
scott snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com wrote:

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Solid brass toilet bolts (snap off). $1.73 at lowes.
http://tinyurl.com/54gek
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The toilet flange may be broken. The bolts slip into a keyhole slot on the flange. If the flange is broken, you'll need to repair or replace the flange. While you're at it, you should replace the wax ring as well. Just remember to not over tighten the flange bolts and crack the porcelain. If that happens, you'll need a new toilet. I always press the bowl onto the wax ring with my body weight, hand tighten the bolts, and give maybe a 1/4 - 1/2 turn with the wrench but not much more. If the floor is not level (low spots, etc), I have seen plumbers set the toilet into a bed of plaster spread around the flange. The plaster will level out the unevenness and help keep the toilet fairly level until the plaster sets up. Most properly installed toilets will move a bit if pushed with enough force, you just want a good seal between the toilet and the flange. Just remember not to over tighten the flange bolts, less is definitely more in this situation.
Les
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Gina and Les Armstrong wrote:

I wonder if he could get a stainless steel flange? :)
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Or a brass coated one?
Les
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Gina and Les Armstrong wrote:

If ever there was a thread where the expression "gilding a turd" applied this is the one!
I've never had a problem with brass/bronze toilet hold down bolts themselves. Over the years most of my angst over toilet hold downs has been caused by cheap thin steel toilet flanges. If there's any moisture around, even that caused by washing the floor around a toilet that's not bedded on plumbers putty, the steel disappears from galvanic corrrosion where it's in contact with the brass bolts, and the heads of those bolts pull right through it.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
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dadiOH wrote:

To go with the stainless crapper.
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