tips on forming concrete?

per my other post (still waiting for opinions!), I've spoken with some individuals in the trade and have learned a lot. clearly the primary issue was the channel was formed right to the garage slap with no buffalo-board spacer...ice got underneath and heaved it, and instead of just moving, it disentigrated (sp?)...
Its clear what my mission is...I'm going to completely clean all remnants of concrete from the fore section (pad side) of the channel, down as far as I can go (hopefully to dirt). same with the bottom, right down. the aft side (driveway side) of the channel will get cut flush with the bottom level, and cut back about 3" to allow me to build forward for strength.
I'm still a bit unclear as to accpetable and productive methods of forming. what material do you use normally? I've seen in pictures that you can use 1x6's, 2x4's, have seen hardboard used for bending around corners, etc. I'm looking to form straight across the front and back with some tweaks up the left and right sides to allow for smooth water flow into the channel on both sides.
can anyone offer tips on what direction to take? also, how thick should my spacer between pad/foundation and channel be? any help is appreciated....I'm interested in gathering up as much thought and design as possible long before I get into it (which won't be until end of May at least...
b
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Well STORMIN I suggest you use 8 x 48 That otta do anyone HAPPY - Forever
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I would chop up the whole mess and re-pour with one of these:
http://www.zurn.com/operations/flothru/pages/home.asp
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OMG! I had no idea what such devices even existed!! this looks like a product I really should invest in for a permanent installation. Thanks for the advice!
now I just gotta call around and find the best price on a suitable unit. I'm thinking the Z812 Flow-Thru channel. 12" across, 12 feet wide. anybody have any rough ideas as to what a good price for something like this is (for a frame of reference?)
b

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Stop by a local plumber's supply. I think these channels come in 10' lengths which, if your slope allows should work nicely IFO a 9' GDO.

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actually, this type of product is very difficult to come by in my area. my mother in law happens to own a pluming contractor business, and can get it for me special order, but its NOT CHEAP (at least not the Flo Thru brand by Zurn). Gonna be over $300 cdn for a 10 foot section with the grating and hardware. Then I have to pour around it!!
There are several alternatives out there made of precast cement, some in plastic, etc. none of them look nearly as nice to work with as the Zurn product, but I guess thats the price you pay.
I'm wondering if its fiscally in my best interest to rebuild the front and back facing walls with traditional forming and high strength concrete. with the excavation deep enough, I can then cast a 10 foot length (or so) of the largest eavetrough material I can find and mould that in so that the water is never really sitting on the conrete as it has been....
also thought of getting large diameter ABS pipe (say 6") and using a circular saw to cut it in half to create a trough as well....though I think the eavetrough would be easier to work with and no cutting.
any other ideas out there??
b
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Well if you're not going to buy a top-of the line product, then I'd find a top-of the line grate cover that sits on a ledge, then build your own trough form out of plywood or scrap lumber and pour 5000# concrete.
The issue here is quality, you don't want to end up having to do this all over again. Quality is going to cost you either in materials or workmanship.
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unfortunately, we're not all made of money. even the Zurn grating system is quite expensive, and not within my budget at this point. I've got a pair of railings that are in MINT shape, but heaved in the current installation (per original pics). I think I'm going to try and salvage them, straighten them, wire wheel and epoxy paint them.
excavation will be easy, and then reform the trench with hi-strength materials, and hope that my first forray into concrete work holds up :)
b

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