Well, water heater's bottom (near pilot light) is getting
rusted out, inner "door" is like a quarter eaten away (is
no longer rectangular), is 15 years old.
(Was looking in home-repair book, described how water heater
works (fairly obvious!), except learned about something
called the "sacrificial anode" -- so I guess that's gone,
no hope for the water heater to last. Also, drip drip drip.
So, what's out there? Anything decent available these days?
On Oct 12, 9:39 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (David Combs) wrote:
They're all pretty much the same (probably made by the same handful of
companies) unless you go to something real high end with a stainless
steel tank or similar.
Just look for something with a long warranty and/or multiple anodes.
Also I don't know if they still have them or not but I prefer a tank
with a standing pilot - that way if the power goes off you can still
have a hot shower.
Finally I recommend before you even fill the new tank to replace the
drain valve with something a little more robust - I used a dielectric
nipple, a 3/4" ball valve, a 3/4" MPT to male garden hose adapter, and
a brass garden hose cap to make one for mine. Something like this:
but made from stuff I had laying around and/or purchased at my local
plumbing store. When we moved into the house, I thought a good thing
to do would be to flush all the water heaters (I have three) - not a
good idea! every single drain valve failed in one fashion or
another. Fortunately I have only had to replace one tank, although of
course that one was the one upstairs in the garage and I didn't
realize it'd failed until water started coming through the ceiling
below. Whoops. New tank has a proper drain pan under it, you betcha.
Which reminds me, it's about time for the annual water heater flush...
Replaced my HW Tank last spring. As someone already posted, they all
look the same, just the name on the tank is different. Lowes sells a
brand named Whirlpool, Whirlpool don't make HW tanks, Lowes just uses the
brand name for sales reasons. Warranties seemed about the same also.
BTW: cheaper price, higher install costs; the end total cost appeared to
me just a few dollars difference. The big savings comes with DIY
installs as then you just deal with the costs of the tank; I, however,
won't mess with Nat-Gas so I got hit hard with install costs.
Hopefully you won't have to go thru what I did. In my municipality, any
HW tank install requires a city building permit (about $70.00 fee for
inspection) plus the cost of the install is bumped up by about $200.00,
if needed, for installing a smaller diameter metal flue, and re-working
the chimney connection. The city inspector focused on the rise of the
metal flue, the mortar (some new pre-mixed stuff in a plastic tub) around
the metal flue and the bricks of the chimney.
I also got a lecture (free of charge) by the city inspector encouraging
me to install a carbon alarm in the basement area with furnace, HW tank,
Aside: I found out a bit later, if replacing a gas furnace, that also
requires a building permit. The city requires a new chimney liner
modification to reduce the diameter of the chimney. Something about
major effort by city and county to reduce the back-drafting of flue gases
during very cold weather (below 0 degree F.)
On Oct 12, 8:39 pm, email@example.com (David Combs) wrote:
Whats out there, units sold range in efficency from 55-95%, go to
www.energyster.gov and learn. If you want to save energy you must
shop by EF rating, not burner efficency, EF is how many cents on the
dollar go to heat water. Most of what is sold is 55-65EF so 45 -55 %
of your fuel is wasted. There are condensing tank of arounf 80 EF,
there are Tankless which I have of 82-95 EF. Tank water heaters are a
main waste of energy in the US. AO Smith makes the better stuff.
high initial install costs, needing LARGE gas supply line, possibly a
upgraded flue, typical gas hot water tanks about 40K BTU tankless to
supply a comparable sized family over 100,000 BTUs. delay when turning
on hot water till burner gets going, waste of water and sewer...
tricle uses oif water may result in cold water, theres a minimum flow
to activate burner. current tankless with no pilot are as or more
complex as a 96% efficent furnace requiring perodic pro service and
possible flushing of sediment from heat exchanger. many tankless
require line voltage to operate. power failure means noi hot water at
the federal government cost comparison website says tankless save
little money because of high upfront costs.
You already have gas so a gas tankless demand water heater is where I
would go. If you have to wait a long time for hot water (second floor
from the basement) then get point of use tankless heaters. They do save
lots of money especially if you don't have teenagers.
They certainly don't make 'em like they used to. I just replaced a
THIRTY year old Amana here about a month ago, with a GE 6-year
warranty unit from Home Depot. It was nowhere near rusting out that I
could tell, and made great hot water... AFTER you got done taking your
cold shower... It didn't keep the water hot, and didn't kick on until
the water was almost completely cold.
I've had many people tell me that the only difference between the 6
year tank and the 12 year tank is the price. Quality of build is the
same. You're paying for the warranty.
Warranties have lots of fine print, and a process to go through that
takes time. By the time all is said and done, you've been without hot
water for days or weeks, and you only get "prorated" value of the
tank, if you get anything at all.
On Oct 13, 11:03 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I suspect that the main diff between a 6yr and 12yr tank is that the
6yr probably only has one anode while the 12yr may have two. thus the
12yr is probably a better buy assuming the price is within $50. If
the cost is a deal killer if you simply inspect the anode every year
or two and replace it when necessary a 6yr tank can last a long time.
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