Tiling clean-up

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Wondering if someone could point me in the right direction?
Had the living room, dining room, hallway and kitchen floors tiled. Unfortunately, when the contracter did it, and then plastered the walls by the newly installed baseboard, some white plaster/dust/paint got into the small (1/8"), randomly placed pits in the tile (a part of the tile) and we can't seem to get it out. We've tried mopping, scrubing, paint thinner, but nothing seems to work.
The tile is not a smooth, gloosy one like you find behind counters but is more like a country french house. No idea what type of tile it is, although it is very hard and very durable, evidently. The tile shop where the tile came from has no suggestions (save for to use an eraser, which also didn't work) on how to get these white spots off of it, and the contractor, before being kicked off the job, was using what she called an enzyme cleaner or something (all of this through translation).
Any suggestions or ideas?
TIA
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Rambler wrote:

Paint remover if it's paint, acid if plaster.
--
dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

Or physically scrape it out/off
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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dadiOH wrote:

Thanks. Could you tell me what type of acid? Is there a brand name (not that we'd have it over here, but it would be a start to ask for in a building supplies place)?
Rambler
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Muriatic acid should work, but make sure it's diluted. Don't leave it on the tiles for long and rinse it off well.
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snipped-for-privacy@usa.net wrote:

First, would you pour muriatic acid on your floor and let us know what happens? It is not something that anyone would recommend putting on ceramic floor tile inside a home, particularly someone with no experience using it.
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Norminn wrote:

I have used it on ceramic tiles a couple of times. Applying it with a rag and wearing rubber gloves of course, and then rinsing it right off. Worked well.
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It is the normal recommended method of removing grout if not properly removed from the face of tile. It will harm virtually nothing but cement type alkaline products and it will burn holes in clothes and skin. I don't expect anyone will go pouring it out on the floor and slopping it around with a mop while wearing their Sunday best in their bare feet. Rubber gloves, plastic/natural fiber bristles, plastic/glass containers are minimums. Water wash and neutralize with any base - baking soda comes to mind.
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
wrote:

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DanG wrote:

comes to mind.

TOP POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE! howbout that Jill!
Dan G
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Levon wrote:

Actually you bottom-posted. You just copied some text from some post to the top and then replied to it. So this makes your point for top-posting... how? :)
Jill
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nanny nanny boo boo ? I still like the meatloafing line better me thinks pumpkin cat is not the only one meatloafing

the
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Levon wrote:

NMR didn't seem to have a problem with my request so I have no idea why you're making an issue out of this. Post as you like.
Jill

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jmcquown wrote:

that's cause matt don't care not like you, it matters enough to you to say something about it yep
i think you're request is obtuse and Im saying that as nice and polite as I can
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Levon wrote:

How about cutting and pasting instead of crossposting, swifty?
R
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Norminn wrote:

Does muriatic acid (impure hydrochloric acid) work on bits of epoxy grout?
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Rambler wrote:

Most any acid other than hydroflouric but muriatic (hydrochloric - HCl) is usual. You should be able to get it at any large hardware/building supply store or pool supply house. IIRC, it usually comes in a 28% solution; you will want to dilute that still further - perhaps 1 part acid with 4 of water or more, adding the acid to the water and doing so slowly. If that seems too strong/weak adjust the dilution.
When applying, keep it off the grout as it will eat that too. You can tell it is working because it will fizz...when the fizz stops it has been neutralized by the basic plaster. If it stops working and more plaster remains, add more of the working solution or use a slightly stronger mix.
After using - even if it seems to have been neutralized - it is a good idea to apply a strong solution of baking soda to the area to assure neutralization; follow that with a clear water wash. It goes without saying that you should take precautions to keep it off of you and anything else you don't want damaged.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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dadiOH wrote:

:
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dadiOH wrote:

Easy on the acid, unless you want to etch your tile. Hot soapy water might take off even dry latex paint, if it hasn't cured too long. Formula 409 works nicely.
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try GOOF OFF, it seems to remove everything!
gooo gone is another one
safe for plastics etc.
just used goof off to remove dried contact cement from a vinly floor. it was amazing
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Rambler wrote:

What kind of tile is it? It is ceramic, porcelain, natural stone, marble??
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