Tile Question - Part II


I posted here about a month ago re: installing tile in one of my bathrooms.
The professional guy was here today. He has done a lot of work for me in the past, but I need some opinions please.
He said my linoleum is in excellent condition and they would leave it, and put hardibacker on top of that. He guarantees his work, and in 30 years says he has never had a problem with tile cracking due to not removing existing linoleum.
This is a tiny bathroom that measures appx. 8' x 4'.
Does this sound like a good way to go about the project?
Many thanks in advance.
Kate
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The only thing I would worry about is the slightly reduced ceiling height due to the thicker floor, and any door height mismatch where the bathroom floor meets a bedroom of hallway. Putting hardibacker on top of the existing flooring should be just fine.
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hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

bedroom. He would put a slight raise of 5/8 inches underneath the carpet so that everything is level. He said I won't notice it when walking on it, and it will be fine to the eye.
If the door is too low, they will saw off the bottom a bit. I had to do this when I installed new carpet a few years ago.
Thanks for your feedback.
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Is he going to tile under the toilet? If so will need a taller wax ring seal ww
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WW wrote:

know about that. I thought I had all my bases covered. I will be certain to ask him.
Appreciate your help. Thank you!
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Sounds like he's giving you a decent job with using hardibacker and tiling UNDER the toilet. A hack corner cutter might trim tile close to the base then caulk. It looks shittier and if the toilet developed a leak it would destroy the floor before you knew it.
Just curious, did he itemize the work? If so, what did he add for pulling and reinstalling the toilet? Where are you located?
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Red Green wrote:

He did say it would cost $120 to pull up the old linoleum. I am going to leave it in.
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Absolutely since hardibacker is going over it. It should be screwed in using screws specifically for the backer. They will not snap and the underside of the heads are designed to properly countersink.
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Red Green wrote:

Thanks.
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Just a little anecdote
This tile was laid over 12x12 vinyl tile 15 years ago. 2 years ago we tore down that room and built a new room You can see a little of the tile in the lower right corner and a lot of the original vinyl tile that wasn't tiled over here.
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addition/Room%20Down.jpg
3 Latino gentlemen busted out all of that raised concrete, running over the ceramic tile with wheelbarrows and whatever
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addition/demo !__saved_the_tile.jpg
A new room was built over that whole area and that tile is still as good as the day we laid it.
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addition/blocked_up.jpg
Vinyl seems to be a pretty good underlayment all by itself. The only thing we did special was we used ultraflex mortar
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

doing some major home improvements.
My project looks like peanuts next to yours.
Many thanks.
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In a bath that's probably fine. Personally I like use mortar behind backer board to the subfloor. Most baths are such a small area that floor bounce is usually less of an issue though.
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jamesgangnc wrote:

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Over a securely attached linoleum on a sound floor is not a problem.
Colbyt
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Colbyt wrote:

gouges, etc. Thanks.
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