Tile Q's

Hi all,
I am building a backyard grill/kitchen and after reeling in the sticker shock of granite have decided on a tile counter. I went to the tile shop and found a tile that I like, but it doesn't come with a V cap, but it does have a chair rail. As I examined the V caps and chair rails glued to the sample boards I really could not see a difference.
Is there? If there is, can I still use the chair rail in place of a V cap?
If not, I plan to cut a 2" tall piece of tile to wrap on the vertical surface of the island. In tha case, is there a trickl to get these pieces of tile to hold still while the adhesive sets up?
Thanks.
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Borax wrote:

Depends upon the tile style. Generally the top of the v-cap that sits on the counter is a bit longer than the one of the chair rail, however the chair rail can be used for a cap.

Depends upon the cabinet. Use fairly stiff/tacky thinset for the vertical pieces. If possible tack a thin piece of wood using a few 4d nails to the cabinet to support the pieces temporarily. Don't knock the nails in all the way, just enough to barely hold the piece onto the cabinet. If the base counter is brick you can do the same trick with the thin wood strip and place the nails in the mortar joints. Another way is to use masking tape wrapped over the just set piece and wrapped over onto the top. Give them a good hard push when you stick them on and wiggle them a little to get them in place. Moving them after that will break the bond and you will need to redo the piece(s).
There are also various metal and plastic edge pieces that can be permanently installed to the face of the cabinet for the tile to sit on as well, leaving a very thin edging exposed.
http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/overview/productoverview.html
Latapoxy 310 should hold them in place without any of the above, but it's not cheap.
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Thanks. The cabinet will be stucco, so I'll find a way to put some sort of straightedge along the face of the cabinet if I decide to go that way.
The other choice, using a chair rail sounds like a better treatment to me right now. Thanks for the speedy response.
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all good advice. i use blue masking tape most of the time.
also look into granite tiles, which are a good deal cheaper than solid granite slabs.
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I had considered granite tiles. I am not sure about how close to 100% level I would have to be. I guess the closer to black the flatter it would need to be. I was thinking someting reddish or perhaps an interesting figuration.
When you mention blue masking tape, did you mean to hold the ledger in place?
Thanks for the quick replies.
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Charles,
Forgot to ask. What is the recommended grout line thickness for granite tiles? I seem to remember than none looks best. If that's the case, do you simply butt the tiles together and call it good, or do you grout over the nearly zero line?
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the edges of granite tiles have a slight bevel. i usually use the thinnest grout lines i can get. i think this is 1/32" spacers.
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there's lots of different colors of tile just like the different colors for slabs. pick ones that you like. i found a palette worth on sale for $1/sqft when i was doing my counters. i also used cut pieces for trim around the stove hood.
http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID 0
i use latex modified thinset for the edges, and i use either strips cut from the surface tiles or bullnose tiles. set the pieces and use pieces of blue tape to hold the tiles on. a ledger would be easier, better, and faster if you can use one.

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