Tie to attach joist to beam above it

I'm sorry, Lawrence, you just aren't right. This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls. It is important that the carrier beam be sized for the load and that the holding method be adequate. Why would the beam care if the joists were on top, in plane, or underneath? It is still a uniformly distributed load. It would be much lighter for the OP to make a truss. Take the precut pieces up in the attic and assemble in location. My age is showing now, but I have seen the hangers done with 2x2 lumber and nails. I would definitely go with the angle iron approach. Prepunched is fine, but expensive. A joint of 2x2x1/8 would be less expensive and you drill your own holes, though the Simpson twist straps might be adequate. Engineering input is always preferred.

Reply to
DanG
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Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but perhaps I'm missing something.

Thanks, Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Whitney

One advantage is not having to build shoring walls to carry the load while you cut the joists to be able to struggle, and I do mean struggle, to get the beam up between the cuts and then install the joist hangers. Depending on the length involved and the clearance you are willing to allow on the joist hangers, you are asking a lot to have a beam straight enough to slide right up. You need to have the new beam in location under the cut before you install the shoring walls.

If it is going to be an attic space or other use where the beam on the "floor" won't create a problem, it can be an elegant solution.

Reply to
DanG

The guy I used to work for had the exact same thing done in his house. They had part of a load bearing wall opened up and did not want the supporting beam it required to be in the room, so it was installed in the attic, just as the OP is wanting to do. However. if I ever saw how it was attatched to the joists, I do not remember. Larry

Reply to
lp13-30

You did, see quote below my comment. He is taking out a load bearing wall below and wants a flat ceiling it seems. I have the same type thing in my home, but mine has an overhead engineered truss through the center instead of the overhead beam that uses angle iron straps like I suggested. Quote "I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this." End Quote

Tom J

Reply to
Tom J

If he puts it above, I'm curious how he plans to get the beam up there. Poke a hole in the outside wall above the ceiling line? Unless the space is wider than it is long, or there is access from another floor into one end of the space, it is gonna be hard getting it up there through a joist space.

aem sends...

Reply to
<aemeijers

This is a perfect topic. I&#39;m in the midst of doing this right now. Heres what Im up against

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I&#39;m removing the wall in question. The joists that span over it are

2x5&#39;s I think. They run 10 feet and sit on top of the wall in question, then continue on another foot and are face nailed to a 2X5 joist running from an inside load bearing wall to the back wall. I cut the sheetrock from under that joist and slipped in a joist hangar on each joist. Then i went up and installed two 2x12&#39;s that also sit on the middle load wall and span over to the back wall. I then nailed and screwed the original 2x5 joist to the sistered 2x12. Do you think this will be enough support? The 2x12 witht he 2x5 nailed to it span 11 feet. When I ripped the plaster off the wall to expose the studs, I noticed that all the studs were pretty loose. I figured if there was a big weight load on them, then would they not be under compression? I can see the nail shanks on some of them coming through the top plate.
Reply to
Jetmech

replying to Ed, Raquesh wrote: Hi Ad, Just wondering if you found a solution yet. I know exactly what you are talking about because I am faced with the same problem - Beam above the joists. How to hang the joists. I do know it is being done when they do not want to expose the beams, but no one will tell me how

Reply to
Raquesh

replying to Raquesh, jasonn wrote: couldnt you just use a 2x12 simpson joist hangar and nail only the top holes of the hanger to the beam?

Reply to
jasonn

replying to RayV, Bob Mirro wrote: I like the angle iron approach suggest above. Bolts/lag screws rather than nails

Reply to
Bob Mirro

replying to Ed, Mwarren wrote: Ed I am curious if you completed this project and if so what you used to tie your beam to your joist. How did it turn out? I am planning on doing the exact same project you have described.

Reply to
Mwarren

Bobby posted for all of us...

In memory of Unc, what about the gerbils?

Reply to
Tekkie®
Re: Tie to attach joist to beam above it open original image
Re: Tie to attach joist to beam above it open original image

Nothing like resurrecting a 13 year old post! Happened upon this as I was looking to see if anyone did mention a prefabricated connector.

I did the exact same thing in my few hundred year old house. Ripped out a very long wall, and fashioned a 3' tall LVL perfectly against the upstairs kneewall. Bolted the remainder of the studs to the beam, and fashioned some hangars from a 50' roll of Simpson strapping allllll the way from the top of the beam, around the joist and stud, to the top of the beam on the other side.

Some photos of the monster beam, as well as the custom fasteners ( you can see them wrapped around both the floor/ceiling joist as well as the stud).

Custom fasteners = measuring and bending per stud. Wife and I made them ourselves.

Reply to
flying_z

As long as it doesn't need to be an engineered connection you can do a lot with those straps but Simpson probably makes a clip for that with engineering that an inspector can verify. Usually there are several, providing different strengths in specified loadings depending on what you are protecting against. (uplift, shear etc).

Reply to
gfretwell

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