threaded wire connectors

Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction box is getting covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? Are there special connectors that can take stranded wire? For example, I like the spring connections on speakers, but perhaps that's not permanent enough for 120v since springs fatigue...

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance,

Aaron

Reply to
Aaron Fude
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Aaron Fude wrote: ...

What's "threaded" wire??? You mean stranded, I guess?

What's to commend? Put the wires together, put on the wire nut and twist...

_NO_ junction box should be covered w/ drywall.

No real trick other than there's no such thing as threaded wire... :)

Just make the stripped length of the stranded wire about 1/3rd longer than the solid. I've not looked; I'm sure there's a blurb on it at the Ideal or other manufacturers' sites.

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Reply to
dpb

On Wed 22 Jul 2009 10:43:46p, dpb told us...

If you want a little more insurance, you can use solder to tin the twisted stranded wire to basically make it solid. Then combine it with the actual solid wire and you stand a better chance of achieving a better mechanical connection within the wirenut.

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

For many years I've used the Buchanan Four-Way Crimp Tool, connectors and insulating caps. The tool crimps the connector on four sides then a plastic insulating cap is snapped over the exposed metal. These connectors are very reliable and don't fall off if installed properly. Here's the best picture I could find of the tool, connectors and caps:

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Hi, Do you mean stranded wire? I never experienced problem using proper size wire nuts over the years as long as I remember. I think hiding junction box with drywall is a big no, no. Think what is the reason you installed junction box? Speakers? I use banana plugs.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Use these with the built in set screw

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Reply to
Rudy

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall, what do you suggest I do about this junction box:

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Reply to
Aaron Fude

You are quite correct. All recessed fixture junction boxes do get covered with sheetrock... and it's perfectly legal, as they are considered "accessible"

Reply to
RBM

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be "accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by removing the fixture can from its frame.

Reply to
Doug Miller

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main power. I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some desk jockey.

Reply to
JC

It is not a "feel good" clause, it is to ensure accessability to all connections so that problems can be located, not just for fires, but for maintenance and troubleshooting. They box may never be opened, but if it was hidden how would you even know where it was is it needed to be worked on.

Reply to
EXT

Oh, I'd probably look at a blueprint. Failing that, I'd probably use a multi-tester and track to where a 120 suddenly shows a 240. Lots of ways. Not to be obstinate but there is no really good reason to preclude covering a box with sheetrock other than just convenience. And, that's okay. But it is just a "feel good" measure.

Reply to
JC

When I do a stranded to solid connections I always strip the stranded wire a little longer than the solid wire. Then I even up the insulation so the bare stranded sticks out above the bare solid and use a wirenut (I learned this from one of the guys on this group a couple years ago when I was just starting out and it has served me well). Twist the heck out of the wirenut and make sure that it is tight. Every connection I make I tug the individual wire to make sure that it doesn't pull from the wirenut. If I think it has the potential to vibrate loose I wrap a few layers of tape around the wirenut and the insulation of the 2 wires. I haven't had a problem.

Shane

Reply to
gore

The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job

Reply to
RBM

Bingo!

Reply to
JC

PS: And just to show you how brilliant that desk jockey that included that in the code is, short two 12 guage wires together in one of those blue plastic boxes and see how long it takes to obliterate it.

Reply to
JC

A box of wire nuts will say, "No need to pretwist." If you make good connections with solid wire, I guess you know it's important not to twist the wires clockwise first, as many do.

The trouble with stranded wire is that it tends to twist clockwise as you screw on the wire nut. You may end up with slack under the nut, and the nut may not engage all the conductors.

One solution is to make the end of the stranded wire solid by tinning it. Instead, I twist the conductors together counterclockwise before applying the nut. Screwing on the nut untwists them. As they untwist, the threads of the nut should catch them all.

I test my wire-nut connections by tugging each conductor. Sometimes I have to try again. With stranded wire, I've found wire-nut connections more reliable than crimped connections. I can make a good wire-nut connection where I can't reach with both hands.

I get by with three sizes of wire nuts. B-caps are especially nice. They have room for the spring to expand, which can mean more pressure and friction to hold large solid conductors. Friction doesn't seem to be such a concern with stranded conductors.

Reply to
E Z Peaces

I'm sure the desk jockey included requirements for circuit breakers that would trip before the box got that hot.

If somebody piled confetti on a faulty connection carrying 20 amps, it could reach kindling temperature. The box is intended to let that heat dissipate.

Reply to
E Z Peaces

Mostly you're having problems with syntax: that junction box for that light connection will not be "covered" in the code sense as long as removing the fixture part exposes the junction box for the fixture. It's still "accessible". But the way you phrased it, without looking at your link, it sounds like a junction box with wires into it wires out of it (nothing else, no fixture) is going to be behind drywall completely. There would be no way to even know where that junction box is located once the drywall is put up. THAT is not allowed by codes! As long as you can remove a wall plate cover, a light fixture, etc, and it's removable by design, then you're all set. You can ACCESS that junction box by taking the light cover off. Now, if there is a junction box with wires going TO a light fixture junction box, and the first junction box is not accessible by taking the light's cover off, THAT would not be allowed, either.

Interestingly enough, I just discovered yesterday that I have two junction boxes illegally installed in the celing - when the attic flooring was put down, it covered two junction boxes. So you can't get at them from the attic OR the bathroom; that's NOT to code; I'll be fixing those when I redo the wiring so they're exposed from the attic side; no big deal as the flooring picks up easily after removing a few screws.

HTH,

Twayne`

Reply to
Twayne

Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with house inspections.

Reply to
Twayne

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