Thermostat problems

I had a Honeywell digital thermostat in a good interior wall location. It seemed to behave well except when it was really cold outside. When that happened, my setting of 68 would invariably go to 72, and sometime more. Thinking that the thermostat was defective, I bought a new one and it still continues. Can anyone advise why the thermostat won't cut out the furnace when the setting temperature has been reached ... only when it's extremely cold outside?

Reply to
Mr. R
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Hi, On some like my Vision Pro 8000, I can set the temperature band tight or little loose from service option.(Like +/- 2 degs. or +/- 1 degs. from target temp.) You can look into this. Here right now it is -20C outside but 'stat works to 20.5C bang on all the time. No over/under shoots.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

If this is a new, off the shelf thermostat and it's doing this with the default settings, as did the old one, something is very strange. ARe you saying the thermostat is set to 68, but the furnace continues to run and the thermostat display continues to go on up to 72, which probably takes another 30 mins+ of furnace run time? I could see how a defective thermostat might do this, or one where you screwed with the settings, but not one right out of the box.

Reply to
trader4

This is exactly what's happening. The replacement thermostat was brand-new.

Reply to
Mr. R

Just a thought, but are you sure nobody else in the house may have bumped the temperature up? Ours is set to 68, but on a cold weekend I'll bump it up to 70 using the temporary setting. The program will still show a setting of 68 because I did not re-program it, but used the temporary setting to increase the temperature.

-Felder

Reply to
Felder

No. Just the wife and I and she does not touch it.

I have just taken a better look at the furnace, and there a Honeywell device attached to it. The device is about the size of a pack of cards, and on the front, it has the words "Cut In", and a screw here you can adjust a setting which is in PSI, starting at 0.5, running to 9. What is this thing and could it be the cause of my problem?

Reply to
Mr. R

On my Hwell thermo, there are 2 DIP switch settings for gas: One for a 90% and above efficiency furnace, and those below 90%.

Does that apply in your case? Have you checked all the settings on it?

Reply to
Buck Turgidson

What model thermostat, and what type of heating system? Do you have an outdoor temp sensor, a remote indoor temp sensor, and/or a humidifier? Have you checked with Honeywell?

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Reply to
Dimitrios Paskoudniakis

The replacement digital thermostat was not a Honeywell. It's a Sears-bought Ritetemp. Being as it's exhibiting the same problems as the previous Honeywell, I have no doubt that the thermostat is not the problem. Take a look at my earlier comment about the "cut-in" thing, attached to the gas furnace. I feel pretty sure that this problem lies with this thing.

Reply to
Mr. R

That sounds like a pressurestat. Do you have a steam boiler?

Reply to
Seth Goodman

Yes, it's steam.

Reply to
Mr. R

Okay. You have a boiler, not a furnace. You may think it pedantic, but it's an important distinction.

You say your heat goes up to 72+ when your thermostat is set to 68 in colder weather. Which of the following is happening?

1) The thermostat cuts out at 68, same as always, but the system overshoots to 72+, due to residual heat in the system

OR

2) The thermostat doesn't cut out until 72+.

If it's #1 (which is my guess), then it appears that for some reason (maybe even by design) your boiler temperature is getting hotter than normal in cooler weather. Since the temperature of your boiler water is controlled by the pressurestat, there may a problem with the pressurestat. I am definitely *not* qualified to offer repair advice on steam systems, so if scenario #1 is the case, then my suggestion is to get a good HVAC tech to check out the system. You can help pay for that by returning your new thermostat to Sears, as the old thermostat wasn't broken.

If it's #2, then make sure your thermostat has it's cph, or swing, or differential set for steam. That's almost never the default - they usually come pre-configured for normal efficiency forced hot-air systems.

Reply to
Seth Goodman

And this answers his question how?

Reply to
Tekkie®

I am guessing at a draft of some kind? Try sealing the hole in the wall where the wires are entering the thermostat base.

Please let us know how how you solve it.

Reply to
Tekkie®

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