Thermostat install problem

I bought a new programmable thermostat and got ready to install it. When I removed the old therm I realized it is mounted vertically in a standard electrical wall box. Well, the new thermostat mounts horizontaly. I *could* just mount it straight to the drywall, but the new thermostat I bought won't cover up the entire hole then. Short of patching the wall I wanted to find an easy solution. I checked the local True Value and Lowes to see if there was some sort of cover/adapter plate but found nothing. Does something exist for this application (and where do I find it) or do I just need to make something on my own?
Thanks
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You probably need to make something, but first you need to be sure of the voltage of the existing thermostat as vertically mounted thermostats that mount to electrical boxes were often line (120) voltage.

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Meaning I need a different thermostat I assume? I haven't put a volt meter on it yet.
I have gas hot water heat (just two-wires to hook up!) . House was built in 1994. I bought this thermostat. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId9501-74493-CT3200A1001
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Kevin_S wrote:

you cant go to that url, lowes wont let you - it stops midway and wants a zip code - i hate that kind of crap from websites - i mean i dont care if they stock it locally or not, i just want to see it right? Eric
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figures....

sure after looking at the picture. Mine looks slightly different.
I'll go home and check the voltage and double check the model number tonight.
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Lowe's (or is it HD) has the stupidest website in the world. They want your zipcode. If the store near you doesn't have it, they want another zipcode. I don't know any of the other zipcodes. Don't they know where there other stores are?
And if I have to go 25 miles to get what I want, I'll do it. Why do they insist on my knowing the zip code of a store 25 miles away.
I wrote them about this 2 or 3 years ago. They're hopeless.
And.... the store near me did have what I wanted,even though tthey said No. I just wanted to look at whatever one lever kitchen faucets they had. I've been to the store. They have about 10 models.

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If the two wires are bell wire, your fine but if they are 14 or 12 gauge, it could mean line voltage. It's not likely they'd be line voltage in a house built in 94'

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId9501-74493-CT3200A1001
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OK Since I work a few minutes from home, I ran home and checked it.
My voltage read about 28 volts to the old thermostat (which was a mechanical honeywell that said 30V max inside of it).
My new thermostat is a Honeywell RTH230B (which I can't seem to find anywhere online... wierd!). Maybe a new model? Or a model special to lowes?
An HVAC guy just happens to be changing folters at work and I asked him about it, he said the one I have should work fine (I showed it to him, I didn't realize it actually ran off of batteries). He said yes there is a plate that is made and sold to contractors but he didn't really say how I could aquire one (probably wants me to have them install one for me). Although he was surprised that I couldn't get said plate at True Value or Lowes.
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You can get a single gang blank plate to cover the box, but it is slightly raised, so it would keep the new stat about an eighth of an inch off the wall. You may be better off just plastering the hole. The thermostat should work fine

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I'll come up with something...
but this makes me think such a plate exists, but how does a non-contractor get one? Guess maybe I should call my normal heating/cooling company.
(bottom two comments) http://www.terrylove.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-4011.html
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I think I might have finally found it!
http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm/productID/453054486/p/Honeywell_209650A
But for $20 (plus shipping, plus waiting for it) I think I can come up with a home brew solution.
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I own an A/C company and what I would do if it were my house is put a blank face plate over the box and move the t-stat over a little bit. You should be able to go into the attic pull to low voltage wire up, and fish it down with a fish tape. It would look as differnet if it were three or four feet down from where it is now.
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I ended up using a white triple light switch cover. I made a few modifications to it, mounted the t-stat to it, and then mounted the whole thing to the wall. It covered the old hole nicely, and the t-stat is centered and doesn't look out of place or anything. Total cost $2.22.
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Kevin_S wrote:

http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm/productID/453054486/p/Honeywell_209650A
Most thermostat hookups just have a hole in the wall (no box). I would get a cover for the box and mount the thermostat to the side, below, or above. Just drill a hole where convenient to mount the thermostat. Then run the wire out an opening in the box to the hole you drill. If you drill a 3/8" hole you should be able to fish the wire from the box to the drilled hole pretty easy. Just make sure there is no stud in between.
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I can't help. Just a wry comment.
It never occurred to me before that the cheap installation of my thermostat would be better than a careful one.. It just uses a hole in the drywall. When I changed from a round Honeywell to a rectangular setback, there were no issues.
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