Textured paint removal

Anyone have experience removing textured paint. My first instinct is to use a paint stripper or heat gun and scrape. The paint is on plaster walls.
Anyone know what works best?
Thanks.
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A heat gun won't work. Chemicals will work the best.
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Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on your post, but I have a room where it looks like sand was mixed in with the paint. My thought was to put a skim coat over it. Anyone who can answer Bob's question, can you tell me if my idea is a bad one?
nancy
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Skim coat is why my home inspector suggested. The house I purchased has every room walls and ceilings textured. I was hoping for the miracle solution that would require almost no work. lol
wrote

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(laugh!) I'm with you. I have put this off for ages because I dread it. What I need to do is call someone to paint this whole place, already.
Texture in every room and on the ceilings? Yikes, sorry to hear it. What's with people.
nancy
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Bob Bins wrote:

Putting on a skim coat of drywall compound is WAY less work than removing paint chemically. As far as that goes, what makes you think the paint itself is textured as opposed to the paint being on already compound textured walls?
--

dadiOH
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Won't work, at least not to give acceptable results with reasonable effort/mess. Assuming you mean a coat of drywall compound.
Why? On applying, the blade needs reference edges to guide it; all you have are random raised bits.
Depending on the type of paint, I'd consider a 6" ROS with 60-120 grit and a vacuum port. And go slow and easy.
Maybe an 8-10" drywall blade can be used to scrape some of that crap off- but watch the corners, lest they gouge.
Maybe some local pro can look at it and offer suggestion/quote.
HTH, J
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Thanks. It's actually not too bad, I've seen worse, but it has uneven spots. I'd rather it just be smooth. Appreciate the advice.
nancy
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wrote

For Nancy: A skim coat is your best bet. If DIY lay broad strokes with the knife flat leaving a space between the strokes smaller than the knife. Knock of the ridges and fill in the gaps. You goal is to lay on no more than 1/8" in the smoothest stoke possible. Leaving a gap the first time around helps you keep things level and minimizes any sanding you will have to do. The flatter the dry wall knife is to the wall the more compound you apply. I think it took about 10 gallons to do a 14x18 room the last time I did it.
For the OP. Painted texture over plaster I would be tempted to try a steamer and a dull scraper like you get with one on those 5 in one painter tools. I actually am going to try this over the weekend. I have a light texture latex painted ceiling in a bathroom that was applied over an oil based paint on drywall. In spots it is flaking.
I am going to try to get back to the oil based surface with as little damage as possible. I am so excited. I can hardly wait to work in a small area, over my head, with a steamer all day. -:)
Colbyt
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Great information, thank you!
nancy
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Don't know if it'll work on plaster, but I wanted to remove the texture and paint from the drywall in my 73 POS. Got a 2" carbide paint scraper, and scraped the snot out of every wall. When the texture came off...it left little pits...but a quick skim coat fixed that. Primed then painted. I got hammered by many saying I should of put 3/8 drywall over the top...but I didnt' want to muck with all the jamb extensions, elec boxes etc.
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I've seen houses where they did put an extra layer of drywall over the top. If I had the house, I'd remove it. It caused so many problems!
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