Texas 85 mph - Don't work well with fog

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GM models with traction control in the 90's should have it.
Greg
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On 11-25-2012 08:10, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

That sucks. The engine quickly slows the wheel down to almost stopped, and the car's momentum keeps it sliding.

Every cruise control I have ever had and every speedometer I have ever had measured speed from the drive train, not by GPS or radar or Pitot-Static.
--
Wes Groleau

People would have more leisure time if it weren't
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Yep. It always amazes me how many people know so little about how those things work.
Haryr K
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Wrong: CC will maintain the same engine RPM needed to maintain a certain speed Set it for 60, hit a spot where it looses traction and those drive wheels will still be doing 60mph until traction is resumed.
Running CC in bad conditions is NOT recommended.
Harry K
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On 11-25-2012 11:18, Harry K wrote:

You are almost correct. The wheels will continue at the same speed but the car will be going at almost the same speed, slowing down gradually until traction is regained or the driver takes over. With the wheel speed and road speed difference being small, there is greater chance of regaining traction quickly.
Without CC, the instant the wheel loses its grip, the engine revs up and the wheels speed up, preventing the regain of traction. Most drivers will instinctively let go of the fuel pedal, making the wheels slow way down, also preventing the regain of traction.
If you don't have CC, the best thing to do is keep your RPM close to what it was and keep the wheels pointed in the direction the car is moving.
Unless there is a slow obstacle in that direction. I've occasionally avoided a crash when skidding by flooring it and oversteering. Even though the rubber isn't gripping the _pavement_, a lot of slush gives the tires some resistance, and I can modify the direction of motion slightly that way.
BTW, I wouldn't be doing any of this at 60 even if I could see there are no other cars or curves for miles.
--
Wes Groleau

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On Sun, 25 Nov 2012 17:54:27 -0500, Wes Groleau

With a standard trans, hit the clutch. With an automatic, put it in neutral, and krrl your foot off the brakes - steer into the skid, very carefully.

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Interesting theory but it flys in the face of what is taught in drivers ed and articles on driving in mags. They all say "do not use CC in bad conditions". Harry K
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On 11-25-2012 23:08, Harry K wrote:

Yeah, I've read a lot of things that turned out to be false when tested. Do any of those say why? Do they say what happens? Did they test it or just make it up, like the cholesterol myth?
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Wes Groleau

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Why don't you read your car's manual and see what _it_ says about it. You are advocating trusting a device to modulate your engine power that ony has "on" and "off" with no sense of what the conditions are or what is needed. Harry K
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On 11-26-2012 13:56, Harry K wrote:

Got rid of my car 27 months ago. Pedal power only now.

I am not advocating trusting a device.
I am stating not my hypothesis about USING a tool and the fact that several experiments confirmed it as useful for that purpose.

It had a sense of what it was designed to control--the speed of the wheels. It did not have only "on or off"--it could and did hold a steady wheel speed anywhere from about 300 to 900 RPM. And it gave me the freedom to adjust, discontinue, or override whenever my sense of everything else suggested I should.
--
Wes Groleau

“Grant me the serenity to accept those I cannot change;
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So borrow your neighbors or are you afraid to check it out?

Glad to see you admit it is only your "hypothesis" and BTW even an hypothesis needs facts. In scientific definitions you don't even have an hypothesis, only a WAG.
Your "experiments" were not controlled ones and you got the answer that you were expecting..nay, hoping for. Subjective all.

Exactly what I said, on or off with no modulation due to conditions. All it knows is wheel speed and it will maintain that up until something stops the engine or exceeds the engine power to do so.
If you are so certain of your results, publish a paper somewhere it will be seen by he expertrs. They should be advised so they can change their advice.
And it gave me

My point exactly, stated differently - you did notice you have to _override_ the system you have controlling you vehicle when conditions call for it? That is one of the reasons the experts say "don't use it in bad conditions" - it adds time to the 'reaction cycle" by requireing a least ond control operation not needded if the CC is not active.
So far all you have produced to back up your "theory" is "I believe that..." type of stuff, nor cites, not even very good logic.
I'll take the word of experts over one persons personal opinion.
Harry K
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On 11-27-2012 12:53, Harry K wrote:

What I have
1. makes sense with minimal understanding of physics
2, foiled attempts to prove it wrong

No skin off my nose, but "Experts" ? A car owners manual that says "Don't do this" without offering any reason? What is the name of the expert who wrote it--I want to check his credentials. Oh, no name. Hmmm.
They may be right--but I have learned in researching a lot of things that there are plenty of "experts" just making stuff up and a lot more quoting what was made up.
"Fat causes heart attacks. Forward to all your friends"
"Salt raises blood pressure. Tell everybody"
If I haven't tested it or seen evidence that someone has, I'm very slow to believe it. Especially when it contradicts simple physics, mechanics, electronics, etc.
If I had a dollar for every time someone proclaimed something is impossible after I had already done it. .....
--
Wes Groleau

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Nice tryi but your "theory" remains a personal opinion and you'll find no expert that back s it up.
Harry K
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On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 02:05:29 -0500, Wes Groleau

BAD advice is irresponsible.
The advice of EXPERTS is do NOT use cruise control in reduced traction conditions, and even using OVERDRIVE is not advised under those conditions.
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Most of the TIME, the setting for OVERDRIVE is at HIGHWAY SPEEDS, so using OVERDRIVE under limited TRACTION or VISIBILITY really should be a non ISSUE.
CHRISTOPHER A. Young Learn MORE about Jesus www.LDS.org .
The advice of EXPERTS is do NOT use cruise control in reduced traction conditions, and even using OVERDRIVE is not advised under those conditions.
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On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 22:12:54 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

a TRACTION issue - and my Taurus will shift into OD at 35 - 40MPH when warm under light load.
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On 11-27-2012 20:39, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Can you name one of these experts?
Can you cite the research article explaining how they proved it?
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Wes Groleau

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Can you cite any research proving your "theory"? Note tht you saying you tried it out is NOT research.
Harry K
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On 11-26-2012 13:56, Harry K wrote:> Why don't you read your car's manual and see what _it_ says about it.
Got rid of my car 27 months ago. Pedal power only now.
> You are advocating trusting a device to modulate your engine power that ony
I did not advocate trusting a device.
I stated my hypothesis about USING a tool and the fact that several experiments confirmed it as useful for that purpose.
> has "on" and "off" with no sense of what the conditions are or what is > needed.
It had a sense of what it was designed to control--the speed of the wheels. It did not have only "on or off"--it could and did hold a steady wheel speed anywhere from about 300 to 900 RPM. And it gave me the freedom to adjust, discontinue, or override whenever my sense of everything else suggested I should.
-- Wes Groleau
“Grant me the serenity to accept those I cannot change; the courage to change the one I can; and the wisdom to know it's me.” — unknown
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On Sun, 25 Nov 2012 01:58:53 -0500, Wes Groleau

Pardon????? Cruise control on a slippery surface? You've got a death wish, buddy. Read ANY operators manual - they expressly warn AGAINST using cruise on a slippery surface. Even with traction control, the Mystique warned against it - and that was ALL SPEED traction control - front drive.
Even worse if you happen to have a trac-loc front diff.

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