Testing dryer receptacle?

Page 2 of 2  

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Of course, you pick up K&T in a box. But it is not "temporary" in the US.

There was a case where insurance was denied because of K&T in the US. The owner appealed to the state insurance regulator, and the insurance company was reversed because they produced absolutely no data showing K&T was a hazard. (IMHO this is another form of redlining.) I have not seen data on hazards from K&T. (But it would be a good idea to replace it when walls are open.)

K&T is still in the NEC (394). Use is very limited, but reconnecting to K&T on a rewire is certainly allowed.
Wiring is K&T only when concealed. When exposed (as in an open basement ceiling) it is "open wiring on insulators" (398).
I have read (don't know if it is true) that K&T was used relatively recently in some areas where flooding was a problem (allowed by "special permission").
I believe the electricians in this newsgroup are not fond of K&T but do not see it as a major problem unless it has been abused.
--
bud--

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bud wrote: "I would describe what you are looking for as a "fuse pullout for a main and range panel". "
You're the guy that gave me the info I needed.
I was able to paste that into ebay and found someone selling old parts. Got exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks, - John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'd suggest to talk with your friends and neighbors. See if anyone else has experience repairing electric dryers. Might be something simple that you're missing. I'm thinking thermal cutout.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
John Albert wrote:

Just plug the dryer in. If it runs AND heats it's good.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Those are the two hot legs.

Yes.
120V each hot to neutral, and 240V hot to hot.
If you see 120 and 0, respectively, the circuit is wired incorrectly at the panel.

Think about it.
Why is the OP asking this question? The most likely reason is that he *already* has a dryer plugged in which *doesn't* both run and heat -- and he wants to verify that the circuit is good first, before he tears the dryer apart looking for a problem.
It's not a very good test in any event. If the appliance functions properly, both the circuit and the appliance are good -- but if the appliance does not function properly, there is no indication of whether the problem is with the appliance or with the circuit. Or both.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Aug 28, 10:04am, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

The heating element runs off the 240 Volts, the dryer motor normally operates off of one of the 120V legs.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you can't figure out how to use two probes to test every combination of a 3 or 4 prong socket, you should probably put the meter away and simpy see if the dryer works.
Hint: there aren't that many combinations. 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 1 to 4 2 to 3, 2 to 4 3 to 4
If none of them read 240, you have a problem.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

There is an interesting device made for 110 that looks like a plug with small LEDs on it. You plug it in, and by the light combination, it tells you if all the wires are wired correctly. Any safety inspector carries one in his pocket, as in buildings, it is extremely rare to test circuits and have them come up straight. Sometimes more than half are wired wrong.
Do not know if they make it in 220 or not.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.