Tell me if I've got this right.....(please)

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Wireless is much more complicated*. It's also harder to set up, less reliable, slower (in many cases), and less secure.
I would not recommend wireless for any place you could run cable.

There's a lot of other problems with wireless.

100Mbps makes sense if you're EVER going to transfer a large file. Today you may have no idea what you're going to do 10 years from now.
I find that I'm frequently transferring video files (often around 1GB) in size. When I first set up a network, I had no idea I would be doing that.
There is 1000Mbps (1Gbps), but there will be very little if any need for that in a small network.

&&&
* - Think about that. You've got a pair of radio transceivers as well as a lot of support electronics. That's already significantly more complicated that a couple pairs of copper wire. There's more to fail (and more you have to do to get it working, if it works at all).
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wrote:

If you want a truly "secure" computer pull the plug from the wall. Newer routers for the home are better now because they install with a firewall in place. Heck WinDOZE is your biggest security breach. It installs and leaves you open to hacks the minute you plug any network adapter in.

Lets see. You have a 100Mbps cable capacity, most likely limited by a 10Mbps network interface card (NIC) unless it is a 10/100 card. Moving the 1Gig file IMHO would not be any faster if the NIC can't handle the data.
Oren
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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Oren wrote:

No joke. When my daughter took her brand new computer to college, it was infected within minutes of being plugged into the campus network. There's no way she could even download the patches from Microsoft in time to avert it.

Gigabit cards can be had for under 10 bucks now.

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yup... the average infection time on campus is a couple minutes here at CMU... and they do lots of scanning and disabling. I've taken to building machines behind a hardware firewall until a software firewall can be put in place.
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flip
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On 19 Jan 2006 19:20:05 -0500, Philip Lewis

Good, but it would be even better to have no internet connection (as I just mentioned in another post).

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Mark Lloyd wrote:

You don't need to be connected to the Internet to become infected if other machines on your LAN are already infected, as can be the case on a college campus. The perimeter is already breached.

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True. I meant no NETWORK connection of any kind. Have the stuff you need to install on a disk, not a network share.

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Mark Lloyd wrote:

Of course, since software vendors only occasionally issue their patches on CD, that's not possible.

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It's possible when you burn your own CDs (or write some floppies for smaller stuff).

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Malware infection requires a program running on your computer to accept the malware. However, many of these things come in email. If you're using Outlook Express, by default it displays incoming messages, and can automatically execute code hidden in the message (HTML). This can be turned off, but the default is "on", and many people don't think to turn it off. #Windows itself can be the offender.
The one thing that helps most against malware is DON'T USE OUTLOOK EXPRESS. Better programs are available for email and news, and many are free. That includes Thunderbird (http://www.mozilla.com/thunderbird /)
Also, download the latest service pack (or order the CD). Get the whole file, not just a web installer. Keep a good firewall program on a disk. These will allow you to reinstall, and stay disconnected from the internet until you've installed updates and the firewall.

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She may still have remnants of anything installed. The only machines I've purchased that had "any" software was in DOS 3.2 days. Any new machine(s) are "newly installed" and configured before the get plugged into a network. This includes all current service packs, etc., plus my favorite proggies...

Never had a gigabit card, didn't need it on a 100Mbps CAT5 cable.
Oren "My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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All true. However if you DO want the computer working, a wired network will be more secure than a wireless one (for obvious reasons).

I use all high speed (100Mbps) cards now. It's getting harder (maybe impossible) to find 10Mbps cards in stores now. Eventually, it'll probably be all 1000Mbps.

It depends on the OS too. I posted that I often get 50Mbps (which appeared to be relatively constant during the transfer). Laptops tend to be slower (I'm not sure how much slower at this time).
BTW, the PCI bus itself would create some limit. Got any idea what that is?

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wrote:

And drive speed, RAM, Processor, FAT16, FAT32, NTFS, yada, yada.

Yeah! 32 bit hardware running 8 bit software, written by a 2 bit outfit....
Oren "My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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Without 1 bit of sense?

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wrote:

You can tell me, did you quit or were you escorted off the property?
Oren
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 22:02:48 -0600, Mark Lloyd wrote:

<snip>

The NIC on this motherboard is GbE, though my switch/router and the other system is only 100Mb. Well, the other system is quite secure right now (powered off, unplugged, and sitting on the table behind me ;-).

In *theory* it's 32x33Mbps (or max implementation of 64x66Mbps), less some arbitration/address overhead. It's high enough that it'll be hard for a disk drive to saturate it. PCI is pretty much on its death bed now though.
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2 of my (newest) computers have ethernet on the motherboard.
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first cover the connector end with saran wrap. increase to two lines. leave plenty at the arrival and departure ends. include additional nylon twine to pull the next line thru when you upgrade. include RG-6 or your favorite cable for tv. include music audio, doorbell, or doorbell video camera feed. include another circuit for the attic exhaust fan you always wanted.
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phaeton wrote:
<snip>
I'll leave much of this for others to comment on, but I can add a few items to what follows.

They're called "old work" boxes. But I would skip the boxes completely and use something called a "low voltage bracket" instead. They're available at HD (saw them there yesterday, near the Cat5 stuff) and probably Lowe's, too. You just press them against the rectangular hole you've cut, bend a couple of wings back into the hole, and screw them down. The screws engage the wings to hold them tight. Boxes are overkill for Cat5 and a pain to deal with, IMHO.

Possible problem detected. If you bought a patch cable, that's stranded wire, no good for punchdown keystone jacks. I always run solid Cat5e that you can buy in bulk. In fact, I generally run plenum rated Cat5e, which can be a little friendlier in case of fire (although there's some controversy about that -- I've been told that it catches fire more slowly, but once it _does_ catch fire, the gases it emits are worse; I'm counting on being gone by then).
Repeat for other end.

I don't think beer is good for dogs. Give it a piece of cheese.

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YAWN!
http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/P/plenum_cable.html
Oren
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