I usually add telephone jacks by connecting one previously installed jack to
a new one in a series. Would like to add another, but don't want to go from
one jack to the next. Could I spice the wire and connect another jack. The
splice would mean two jacks would be coming from the same wire.
(I'm not using the term 'series' as like a 'series circuit'.... just one
Thanks for the replies. I guess indirectly I was asking whether or not
telephone jacks were connected via series or parallel circuits.
Can't believe I've let this 1 hour project last 3 days now. Can't say I'm
spending much time on it, but it's been a bit of a struggle. Maybe you can
help me avoid some problems in the future and present.
Question 1. Had to drill across two thick pieces of wood that were
separated by a 5 inch gap..... total distance of the gap and wood was about
9 inches. Then, I tried to run the telephone wire through afterwards. What
a struggle. I pinched the end of the telephone wire to the end of a coat
hanger and tried to run it through. Couldn't get that wire/hanger to find
the second opening no matter how hard I tried. Eventually, I had to admit I
was beaten (what an ego deflator) and widened the initial entrance hole.
Then, I found the second hole easily.
Granted the original drill hole was only slightly larger than the wire, but
I should have been able to find the second hole as it was only a 5 inch gap.
A friend of mine said it's normal to drill a much larger hole to allow the
wire to go through.
My question is, is there a special way to run these wires across these types
of gaps? I doubt one needs to make a much larger hole if the hanger and
wire fits through comfortably.
Question 2. I am running the wire along the edge of a cellar ceiling. Both
the ceiling and wall are made out of old plaster. Normally, I use u-shaped
staples and staple the wire along the edge of a floor or molding. I doubt
these staples will hold in the plaster. I have a feeling the plaster will
crack and crumble. Someone suggested using small plastic u-shaped clamps
and screwing them in. Again, I am afraid the plaster might crack if I screw
them in. Any particular size or type of screw I should use? Or, is there
something I else I should try to keep the plaster from falling apart? (I
know, I may be worrying needlessly on this one as I haven't tested any
screws out yet.)
Question 3. After I splice the wire, I'll be using the small plastic
electrical caps to marry the wires together. I was thinking of trimming
the plastic coating back about 3/8" back. Is this too much or not enough
for small caps? I haven't done this in years. I don't think I have to
twist the wires together beforehand. I just put the wires, turn the cap and
the wires get twisted together when the cap is turned.
Question 4 I know you use black electrical tape afterwards. Where do you
start and end taping around these caps so it doesn't look like a hack job
when you are finished? Do you completely cover the cap so you can't see it
afterwards. I know it doesn't matter. I just want it to look somewhat
Question 5 Learned the hard way that masonry drill bits are not good for
drilling through thick pieces of wood. Always thought if the drill bit can
go through harder stuff, it should be easier to get through wood. I guess I
was wrong. What is the rule of thumb for drill bits. Should I have two or
three different sets. One for wood, metal and masonry. I only say this
because of the difficulty I had yesterday and last year I broke a number of
the smaller bits. I think the smaller bits were titanium tipped. I was
probably using them for drilling into wood when they broke.
Actually what you are refering to is a daisy chain. Electricly
the jacks are parrallel, but the jacks are wired one after the
other down a line.
It is almost impossible to find the other whole on the far side of
a gap. Any wire that you try to poke through will be less than
perfactly streight and will not go directly through the gap. It
can be done, but it is a real zen type of experience.
Don't putnails or screws into old plaster walls. Use an
adheisive hanger. I'm not sure that they are commonly available,
(check an electronics supply store). What you are loking for is
a square plastic adhisive pad with slots in it ta accept a tie
Or you can drill a pilot hole through the plaster and run a
long screw into the 2x4 wall header. Leave the screw protuting
about .25". Then attach the wire to the screw the way linemen
atach wires to insulators.
No need for wire nuts. This is low voltage, low energy circuits.
You can simply twist the wires together really good. Add some
solder it you want a really good connection.
Just my $0.02 worth. Hope it helps
securing the line along the ceiling edge. Will try out your idea.
Murphy met up with me here. Had to drill another hole and move the wire a
bit as the two ends of the freshly cut wire just barely met.
I'm not sure if I had any solder. So, I did use the wire nuts. Didn't feel
like looking around for the solder.
Standard practice in installation of telephone wiring is to drill through
walls and floors.
Use an 18" drill bit, aprox 3/8 to 1/4" to drill your hole, either with a
brace or electric drill
turn on the lights in the room on the other side of the wall and get down on
your knees and sight through the hole
in the wall.. or floor, etc. You will see the light coming through the other
side of the drill through.. push the wire
through the hole as you are sighting through the hole and you can see the
end and align the wire as you push through the wall, etc
and through the other hole. The wire will droop as it goes from one side to
the other, or insulation may be in the way.
That is why you have to sight through the holes to get the wire aligned to
get it through the two sides.
Find another way to run the wire. do not run along the top of a plaster wall
It will crack and not hold. soon will come down.
The optional way to do the wire run if no other way is possible is to buy
the stick on
plastic u-channel, put that up first, run the wire through the channel then
snap on the cover.
There are some c-clips for wire runs that come with adheasive backs. They do
not hold well for the most part.
A splice like this is jack leg for telephone work.
If you have to splice into an existine telephone wire run, place a jack
where you want to make the tap
and then make your connections in the jack. You may have to place two jacks
because the existing wire after being cut
to make the connection cannot be joined back. The jack insures a secure
tight connection and also provides another location
to connect a phone and also another test point to isolate for telephone
wiring problems., which will come about because
of poorly made taps and splices which you are proposing to make in the
existing wire work.
gotten in the longer lengths.
You can also get a star drill bit, but this is a whole lot of work to beat a
hole through a brick wall with one of
those.. Better off with a good masonary bit and a hammer drill..
You drill through wood? you buy a wood bit.
the two do not intermingle
I am going to try some sort of stick on. The u-channel may be the way to
go. My biggest concern is whether they will hold. It's slightly damp in
Sorry not familiar with repair lingo. 'jack leg' means? (I presume... not
the best way.)
I wish I had paid more careful attention to your post. I already made the
splice without using a jack. But, I have extra jacks and since I moved the
wire I have extra wire length. I wouldn't need two jacks at this juncture.
If the nuts come off easily. This wouldn't be more than a 10 minute job as
the wires are already trimmed back.
Q1: They make a specialty spade bit with a small hole in the spade.
Drill the hole, run the wires through the bit, pull the bit back out.
You can also do this with a regular bit and a small amount of
Q2: I hate plaster. If it were me, I'd find some way to route the wire
in the stud space, or mount a wireless phone instead.
Q3: Use these instead: http://www.tselectronic.com/3m/ug_ur_uy.html
Q4: See Q3. Or use:
Q5: You already answered your question. It's just a matter of how much
you want to fight the tool you are using for any particular job.
Just checked out the base of the long bit I used. It's tapered. I could
have taped the wire to the end and pulled it through.
Also, checked out the spade you talked about on the Intenet. I've seen them
before. Never knew why that hole was there.
At first reading your suggestion, I thought it was a bit whacked as I
thought you were suggesting running the wire over the plastered ceiling.
Then, I thought, maybe you have something there. So, I took a look down
cellar again and realized I could have routed the wire, avoiding the plaster
all together, if I went through the stud space to the left. I would have had
to use an extra 7 or 8 feet of wire, but could have avoided this plaster
These are ideal If it weren't for the price. $13+ I'd buy them in a
If it didn't look so tacky, I'd use duct tape.
Mt completely amateur experience is that you can hook up phone wires
just about any old way and they'll work. The only caveat is if you
want to run DSL thru it, you need to make all the connections nice and
tight. I do my phone wiring in a star pattern.
Interesting you brought up a point about DSL. We are running two lines in
the house. The line I am wiring now is not being used for DSL. The other
line is. My downstairs DSL telephone line works fine. It is connected to
the computer modem and telephone. The phones upstairs pick up static at
unpredictable intervals. There are no computer modems up stairs. It's very
annoying as the static can be very loud at times. I've come to the point
that I am reluctant to call or answer calls on these phones.
Someone told me it could be the DSL connection causing the problem. I found
that a bit bizarre as the lines downstairs do not pick up static. I use
filters on all the DSL-lined phones. You mentioned that you make an appoint
to make all connections nice and tight and run the wiring in a star pattern.
Do you do this to avoid static or is there some other reason?
This static problem was on my very low priority list, but if the solution is
simple I might tackle it sooner than later. I had a feeling I had stapled
through one of the wires and I was picking a shortwave radio connection of
sorts. Never really thought it could be a connection problem at one of the
Why do you need a jack for your telephone? Is it really that heavy?
I have never seen the need for a jack, I just pick my phone up and
carry it. However, if you really do need a jack for it, any
automotive bumper jack or hydraulic floor jack should lift a
Good point. Someone else brought up the same point to me. I'm assuming you
mean why not use a cordless phone and carry it around with you. The basic
reason is the phone is used by my elderly father. He has difficulty
hearing. And, no matter how clear these cordless phones are, they generally
don't match the clarity and/or loudness of a corded phone. Also, the
cordless phones bring with them other problems, like they run out of charge
and must be put back in the recharge unit. And, carrying them around is a
nuisance and difficult for someone walking with a cane or walker. That
said, he does have a cordless phone. With more jacks installed he doesn't
need to carry the cordless phone around everywhere he walks to in the house.
Plus, one less wire extension running across the middle of the floor (to
support one of the current corded phone he uses) decreases the chances of
By the way, he uses a block and tackle to lift up one of his phones:-)
The block and tackle sounds like a great idea. Maybe you could just
rig up some sort of motorized phone that he could drive around the
house. Like you could get one of those old telephone booths and
attach it to a garden tractor or golf cart and then build a recharge
station with satellite dish and run the whole thing off of a satellite
via remote control. Not only could he have phone, but you could even
hook up the internet and widescreen HDTV satellite studio with
surround sound, inside that booth on wheels. Plus, if he needs any
medical monitoring devices, you could hook that to the remote, and
even set up a automatic drug dispenser complete with a glass of ice
water for pill taking. He'd probably have lots of fun driving that
thing around while talking on the phone too. This would also
eliminate the need for a jack, unless he gets a flat tire or rolls the
thing over while watching the Indianapolis 500 on the HDTV.
or "Vintage", expect to pay double that amount.
Any city street corner, bring along some tools to unbolt it from the
sidewalk. Prepare for possible arrest, unless you can convince the
cop you either work for the telco or are a soldier of God doing your
part to remove a phone that has been used for porn and drug dealing.
If none of the above are possible, build your own, and hire an artist
to put the "Bell" logo on it.
Came up with too many problems with your recommendations.
1. Phone booths means dialing from a pay phone....he'll need to have lots
of change lying around.
2. With a golf cart he'd have to charge it up. That means a 220-V line
needs to be installed. A golf cart is a good idea. He loves golfing. If I
decide to put in a miniature golf course in the house. I may revisit this
idea. (Seriously though, the poor guy may be wheel chair bound within the
next couple months. That's going to create a whole new set of house
3. Then, you say he'd probably have "lots of fun" driving while talking on
the phone. That's the biggest reason I shot down your suggestions. Thanks
anyway... I finally finished installing this jack.
Damn - I thought this was such a good idea......
Seriously, a cellphone might work best for someone is a wheel chair.
That is if you can find one that isnt going to cost a fortune since
many cost much more than a home phone line. Otherwise get a cordless
phone and a spare battery. The problem with any cordless is that when
the batt goes dead, you can not get calls. Thats why I always have a
plug in phone besides the cordless. The batts always seem to go dead
when there is an emergency.
I'd like to have him have a phone with him at all times in case of an
emergency. Never really thought of getting him a cell phone. Tried to
convince him to get the AlertResponse unit that hangs from your neck (I
think) and dials 911 automatically if he had a problem. He didn't like the
idea. Maybe a cell phone would appeal to him. I could get a unit from
where I work for about $15/month. So, it wouldn't be too much of an
A cell phone has to be able to connect to 911 even if you don't have
service. Years ago, I would carry one around with me when I went hiking for
this reason. One day I did need it and the phone service gave me a bunch of
crap before putting me through. So, I would definitely have the phone
hooked to a service.
The cordless set he uses never goes dead. I think the charge last 4-5 days.
And, he recharges it regularly. The problem is that it's a bit bulky
(compared to a cell phone) and he doesn't carry it with him everywhere.
I wrote in another post about moving the cordless/answering machine/speaker
phone to where he rests most of the day. But, I like your suggestion and
may put a regular phone there as well. In case he doesn't want to use the
speaker phone or the cordless phone is in another room. Thanks Again!
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