table saw motor binding electrical smoke resistance noise jerky....how BAD

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They may be full of sawdust?
Jimmie
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So true, your usnet advice is worthless again.
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On 4/4/2009 5:35 PM ransley spake thus:

At least I can admit when I'm wrong, something I've *never* seen you do (and boy, are you wrong a lot of the time!).
--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself
  Click to see the full signature.
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Really, so post them I dont remember any, and your still an ass to keep it up.
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Us few drummers on here all know that using brushes is quieter... and then started using table saws where brushes means ungodly loud. I couldn't believe the difference switching from a tabletop brushed motor TS to a "proper" induction motor. Serious danger of injury from not hearing the motor running.
As to yer busted motor. I''d rip it out and drag it along to the local washing machine repair place (seriously) and get 'em to check it out and quite for a recondition/exchange if faulty. They may have brushes to fit or have a rewind/recondition service on the premises or be able to recommend their pet service if not. These guys handle fancy multispeed oscillating reversing motors all day. A TS motor will be child's play for 'em. If you know of a motor rewinders, try them first, or as well. They'll be able to tell you if there's a fault to be fixed.
If they don't have to dismantle a machine there'll probably be no charge for a quick check, or maybe a nominal fee whereas taking the whole thing somewhere for a strip and check will cost you £25. GBP ?45.00 USD just to look at it.
Then it's a judgment call - is the repair price worth it?
when you dismantle, the saw may have a left-handed thread (motor on your right, normal operating position) - or a right handed thread if it's on the operator's left.
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bentley wrote:

If it is belt drive, have you taken off the belt to verify the motor is the problem?
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http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id%34374303523072&bmUID 38874397130&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id„5524443277381&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true
*You may be able to save some bucks and have it rebuilt at an electric motor repair shop. Check the yellow pages. If nothing else they can tell you what is wrong with it. You might want to add thermal protection onto the motor control of your saw to prevent future damage to the motor.
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The hard part is, putting the smoke back in.
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bentley wrote:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id%34374303523072&bmUID 38874397130&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id„5524443277381&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true

Does the motor have capacitor? It may be shot.
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There is a brush assembly part number. What does this mean? (if anything different)
There is no belt. The blade is bolted to the shaft.
There seems to be no capacitor, but a circuit breaker / rocker switch. I cleaned this circuit breaker / rocker switch out once as it has stopped working, but I can't see this being the problem this time. Could it?
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also.....Bearings......? jloomis

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id%34374303523072&bmUID 38874397130&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id„5524443277381&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true
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If there was smoke coming out of the motor, the motor is shot. PERIOD. One of the windings burned up....
Maybe you can get replacement parts for that motor, or just a new motor. Unfortunately that generally costs as much as a new saw (or other tool). But some companies might be cheaper.
Another option would be to take the motor to an electric motor rebuilding shop. Maybe they can rewind the bad windings much cheaper. All you can do is ask them for an estimate.
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