T&P relief valve - nowhere to drain?

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Hopefully someone can offer some guidance on a problem I have with my water heater.
It would seem that the boneheads that built my house 7 years ago failed to put the hot water heater in a location where the T&P relief valve can safely dump water to a drain. The water heater is installed in a small closet, below grade, and was placed on top of carpeting, underlay, and then the concrete foundation. I didn't even realize that it was normal for the T&P relief valve to activate periodically - I thought it was in the event of a catastrophic failure, but I now know that's not the case.
I just noticed that the carpeting is completely soaked, and there's mold growing in the carpet. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from anywhere, so I have to assume the T&P relief valve is doing its thing.
There's no drain anywhere near the heater. Is there another alternative to placing a bucket under the drain tube?
On a side note, I'm not quite sure why the T&P valve would be activating so much lately, unless it's because we've been using more hot water since the arrival of our first child. I don't think the moisture problem in the water heater closet has been going on for long. I've been checking the drain tube periodically, and it doesn't appear there's a slow leak or anything.
Any advice?
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It's not to activate periodically, so what made you think otherwise?

Which would indicate a problem that needs to be corrected.

Have it checked out? There is a problem that needs to be addressed, before you end up with a bigger mess.
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T&P valve should NOT normally open, get that fixed immediately.
common causes high home watewr pressure, backflow preventer doing its job on main water line in, tank set too hot...
might be a leaking tank........ put bucket or pan under output of valve to get better idea of source of water
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About 98% of them are installed that way..
The water heater is installed

It is pretty much the case. You have a problem that needs fixing. Could be the valve itself going bad, chould be the temperature is running to high for some reason, like a bad thermostat, or the water pressure is higher than normal. .

Put a bucket under it to be sure that is where the water is coming from.
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wrote:

The one in my house has a copper tube going up along the vent (for gas fumes) and draining on the roof, near the chimney.

--
113 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
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Which is against code, if you live in an area where the outdoor temps fall below freezing. But, it's still not smart, unless there's a way for you to know whether it's dripping or not.
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Freezing temps and seeing a drip really don't matter since no T&P drain should go up. If it does, water is in continuous contact with the relief mechanism which leads to premature failure. Freezing risk is also dangerous of course but corrosion is equally if not more dangerous. Certainly model code states that drains must be continuously lower than the T&P.
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Yeah, so run them damn things outside in freezing weather... Idiot!
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My point stands whether you like it or not. Corrosion and valve failure are concerns whether or not there is a potential for freezing weather. Remember context.
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with
gas
whether
are
Remember
My point is also a fact, Bozo.
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ago
temps
Ok let us look at your point (other than the one on your head).
By your advise it's ok to run a drain up from the T&P as long as the weather isn't freezing. Gee, that just exposes the household to danger any time at all because of a corroded T&P. Not so good hunh?
Now try to get your act together and stop giving bad advise. Got it?
GOOD LUCK.
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I got that you're a dickhead along time ago.
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Wow. Interesting response to having your bad advise exposed once again. Some folks would be smart enough to go away. You on the other hand want to stick around and wallow in your incompetence.
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Some
stick
All of the incompetence is coming from your end, Boy.
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Liquid lines sweat? Local authority can't relax standards from model code? Moot, mute? Affect, effect?
Do you want me to go on?
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LL can sweat under the right conditions... if you say otherwise, you need further training in HVAC. No surprise there... Local codes *do not* override manufacture's installation instruction, Dipshit!

Sure, but next time please post something that's factual.
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Ok, here it is for the last time: liquid lines don't sweat - if it is sweating then it is something else. Got it? (I doubt it)

Never said that local codes overrode manufacture's requirements. However you did say that model code couldn't be relaxed by local authority. Your statement is totally wrong, as usual. Got it?

You're the only liar here dancing monkey boi.
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again.
to
code?
need
It's still the LL, Asshole! Do you not understand anything?

you
I got that you're covering for your previous lie.

Here's a fact, your buddy meat plow is really your boyfriend.
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You do remember that you said it was the liquid line sweating on a mini- split, don't you? Guess you'd like to forget that screw-up wouldn't you.

The only story teller here is you, boi.

Wrong again on all counts as usual. Just keep dancing monkey boi.
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want
I never called it a LL on the mini-split, asshole. Lies, lies and more lies is all you have to post.

However
Facts, it's facts, unlike your bullshit lies.

You're one hungry stupid son-a-bitch.
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