synthetic motor oil

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On Tue, 2 Feb 2016 19:27:22 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"

The benefit of synth oil as far as gas mileage is tiny. You aren't getting an extra mpg due to the oil. There is also a tiny benefit to the lower viscosity oil but again, it's not 1 mpg. The syn v dino might be worth half a percent. The lower viscosity maybe 2%.
The only reason to use synt today is if you plan to go to extended drain intervals. If you will be doing 6000 mi/6 mo max any regular brand dino oil of modern spec will be more then adequate. That was not true 20 years ago when synth had some real advantages over "regular dino oil".
I got sick of changing oil twice a year in my 5 cars so I switched to synt and went to 1 and sometimes 2 year old changes.
There was a guy who did a lot of oil testing on his Camaro comparing syth to regular. There was some other guy too who did similar. Between the two I can recall reading they found regular oil starting to poop out at about 8000 miles. Synth generally went to between 10K (for the worst) and 14K or more. One thing he said that was interesting was that he pulled the sample for synth at something like 10K and it was marginal. The car was down a quart so he only added a quart instead of changing it. Drove it for another thousand or two miles and sent in another oil sample. The new sample was back in the range of what he usually saw for 3K mile tests. So either one new quart really perked up the old 4 quarts of the "bad" test was a fluke and it really wasn't as bad as the test suggested.
In our fleet of many hundreds of vehicles the shop found the sweet spot for oil changes of light cars and trucks to be 6 months or 7500 miles using bulk dino oil. So on my cars still under a warranty I stick to the manufactures "normal service schedule" of 6 months/6000 miles with whatever oil they care to use for the sale price. Watching for specials at the dealer my average oil change costs at most $25 and I usually get a free wash.
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On 2/2/2016 2:27 PM, badgolferman wrote:

Not sure if you got a warranty but I would probably stick to manufacturers recommendations maybe including letting the dealer do the work until it expires. If you do have a warranty problem you may have to prove you abided to the recommendations. I had a problem like this and was doing my own oil changes and of course they asked for receipts. I told them I did not save them but kept a repair diary and they did accept that.
I once filed a small claims court suit on Ford and the dealer for not honoring my warranty. When I met with their lawyer and showed him my files, they gladly settled out of court for more than expected.
I'd probably stick with the synthetic oil as apparently it does not have nearly the additive content of regular oil and breakdown components may be less corrosive.
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they sludge less and are less likely to "burn off". That reduction in oxidation also means less acids and other corrosive byproducts form in the oil.This also means the oil viscosity remains more stable - with little or no thickening of the base stock due to deterioration. The viscosity index is inherent to the oil structure, so VI improvers are not used as much, if at all, meaning the oil viscosity does not drop from shear. The cold flow is much better, resulting in less cold-start wear, and since the viscosity is stable under heat, the oil film doesn't break down under high temperatures causing high temperature lubrication failure and metal scoring/seizure/micro-welding etc.
Also, a dealer or manufacturer cannot refuse warranty just because you don't have them do the service, or because you use someone else's products, as long as they meet the manufacturer's specifications. Running non synthetic in an engine where Ford, for instance, calls for synthetic can render your warranty void for lubrication related failures only. Using synthetic in place of regular oil can not foid your warranty.
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On 2/2/2016 5:13 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

My problem was a head gasket but they did want to see all service records.
I know a little about the oil chemistry but not all.
I intend to get a new car next month which specifies synthetic oil. Retired I don't put on high mileage and am more concerned about intervals called for. I hear newer cars put out warning lights that oil needs changing. One guy did it himself but light does not go off as you have to do some magic to stop it.
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Frank wrote:

Most new cars specify 0-20 synthetic and 15K change interval. I always take it to dealer when reminder pops up on MID. Dealer costs little more but oil change service includes basic inspections and tire rotation. When trade-in time comes they give somewhat better deal knowing the car's service history. Always I notice my old car becomes CPO and they get sold pretty quick on dealer's used lot. And I don't want to mess with used filter and oil to discard them properly.
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On 2/2/2016 7:04 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Mentioned elsewhere what I was doing. Getting older I've been having shop do oil changes. I used to do it for convenience of not being pinned down waiting for it rather than cost but when you add taking oil in for recycling it gets bothersome.
Dealers and shops can be annoying as while they can find undiscovered problems they have a tendency to look too hard for stuff that could be put off and recommend shorter service intervals.
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Frank wrote:

My dealer is privately owned. After founder died his widow and daughter are principals. Most staff members are 10-20 year guys with this outfit. Very trust worthy place.
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On 2/2/2016 7:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Dealer or shop I was going to do reliable work but both will call for oil changes at half the recommended manual specification.
I'd go to shop for tire rotation and oil change and most of the time they would call my name at the counter, come out, ask me to sit down, and give me a laundry list of things they think need doing. Annoying when they say that windshield wipers need changing when I just did them last month.
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replaced them and ASS U ME they have not been replaced.
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wrote:

Since they burn our trash in a waste to energy incinerator, I am not sure just putting in the trash is horrible but my wife has a recycle tank at work.
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On 2/2/2016 6:38 PM, Frank wrote:

The lights have to be reset. Procedure is usually found in the manual and is usually a couple of simple steps.
Some cars have sensors that tell you when the oil needs changing. Then detect contaminants in the oil.
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On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:07:25 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

You sure some do it that way? The cars I've been familiar with that have a light, do it by logging your driving. Long trips, highway driving, less frequent change. Stop and go, short trips, etc, earlier change.
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badgolferman formulated the question :

I switched to Royal Purple synthetic in My 1998 Ford Taurus and noticed a smoother running engine. It doesn't make sense, but that's the facts. At oil change time, My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee will get the Royal treatment as well.
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Eagle wrote:

We use Motul or Redline.
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