synthetic motor oil

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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 18:06:49 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

"Coking"? Is that the car or the driver?
No I never heard about it.
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 18:40:39 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

The oil litterally turned to coal or diamonds in the oil galleries,killong the engines. Was a serious issue on Chrysler 2.7, Audi /VW 1.8T, Toyota 3.0, Saab turbos, and a few others.
If caught on time it was just slurge, which could be remedied. Once it turned to coke, there was nothing you could do except change trhe engine. Sometimes hot tanking the block would allow a rebuild, if it had not grenaded or spun a bearing.
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On 2/3/2016 6:06 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I never changed oil in my '53 Mercury flathead V-8. Just added a quart every few hundred miles.
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I had a 67 Chevelle like that. "Fill up the oil and check the gas"
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 20:17:38 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

My first car - 1961 Morris Mini 850 -got 50mpg of gas and 25 miles per quart of #50 with 2 or 3 cans of STP in it before I rebuilt it. When I took the exhaust off and stood it in the corner of the shop thick tarry oil oozed out the tailpipe.
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 23:39:52 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I had a LeBaron that was eating a quart of oil per tank of gas at around 150k. It wasn't dripping and it wasn't smoking. I was not sure where it was going.
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 00:13:35 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Had the same problem with my 1988 New Yorker (3.0 Mitsu-shitty). When the catalytic converter started rattling and the car didn't pass emissions I found out where the oil was going. When I dropped the cat you could hardly see the car for smoke. (wallered out valve guides was the cause)
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 16:18:08 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Same basic engine I imagine and I suspected the same cause. I traded it on the Prelude and never looked back. I did pass up on offers to sell it to a couple neighbors ;-)
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 16:51:07 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Mine had the heads replaced by Chrysler under extended warranty at just under 100,000km because the guides were loose in the head - just before I bought it. I replaced the heads again at 200,000KM when the oil killed the cat - and I sold it at about 244,000 for $1700. Bought it 6 years old for about $6000 - spent under $2000 in repairs over 12 years and 140000+kms - that car didn't owe me a cent when I got rid of it and I still got good money for it. (Mark Cross edition - loaded with everything you could get on it - the original owner left over $50,000 behind at the dealership)
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On 2/3/16 8:17 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

+1 on my trusty '66 Beetle.
When I eventually sold it (back in the 70's), one of the clerks in the company where I worked wanted to buy it. I warned her about the oil burning and gave her a really righteous near-give away price on it. I cautioned her emphatically and repeatedly to check the oil at every gas up- telling her what would happen if she didn't.
A month or so after she bought it, she marched into my office and demanded her money back because the engine had seized up. When I asked her about checking the oil, predictably she admitted she hadn't- saying she didn't think she really needed to despite my warnings.
I told her I was sorry but since she hadn't taken care of the vehicle and done what I literally told her to do a half dozen times- including even writing it on the bill of sale, the problem was hers, not mine.
Not surprisingly, opinion around the water cooler ran against me- slick talking white boy taking unfair advantage and ripping off a "sistuh."
--
Life is tough.....it's even tougher if you're stupid.
- John Wayne
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Wade Garrett wrote:

You broke a rule. Never sell anything to friends/relatives. Don't even give something free.
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On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 8:10:01 AM UTC-8, Tony Hwang wrote:

Over the last 20 years I've fixed up or sold outright 3-4 cars and a Chevy G-20 van, usually with newly rebuilt motors or valve jobs. Quickly found that I also "sold" lifetime free labor for any repairs needed as long as they owned the cars. FYI: I no longer accept "free cars" that just need a "little work"
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my 2014 toyota avalon requires Synthetic oil [in the manual]
i'm surprised your Lexus doesn't require it...?
my last car, a 2003 avalon, didn't require it, and i tried it, but i wasn't driving much, so decided it wasn't worth the extra cost...
marc
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

It doesn't require it, but it's always had it.
My 2013 Lexus RX350 also doesn't require premium unleaded. Might have been the first year back to regular from premium.
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badgolferman wrote:

That is why Toyota 3.5L has lesser numbers in engine tech specs. They use that engine every where in their product line. I just take the car to dealer service whenever MID pops service reminder. Only thing I do is seasonal tire/wheel switch. Even this chore is getting harder dealing with 19" wheels. I use tire dolly now for the job.
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Tony Hwang wrote:

When I bought the car I told them I didn't want the 19" wheels that came with it. I knew they cost more, have less options, and would ride rougher since they have less air in them. They switched the wheels/tires with an 18" set on another unsold RX350. So far I've rotated them twice myself. The dealer wanted a lot to do it.
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Shade Tree Guy wrote:

LOL! IMO, shade tree grease monkey days are over now. Today's cars are more electronics than mechanics.
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wrote:

That is over sold. The fact is the only thing that changed is the shade tree mechanic needs a code reader or he has to go up to the auto parts store for a free readout. That actually made working on cars easier, not harder because 99% of the time, the computer will nail the bad part if it is computer related. The rest of the wrenching did not change much. The reality is, a lot of it like the good old "tune up" just went away. Plugs last pretty much the life of the car for most people and there are no points to burn. Timing is fixed and there is no carb to adjust. If they just put a little access door to check/add oil and water, you could bolt the hood shut.
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That is about right for most cars up to atleast 100,000 miles. Change oil and check on the water and other fluids. I had a 91 toyota that I changed oil twice a year and the factory said change the timming belt every so many miles. I did have the water pump changed at the same time as it is under all the covering and driven by the timming belt. Breaks, tires and a sensor was all that I did to it in 200,000 miles. I did replace the plugs, coil and wires while trying to find out what was causing the problem at 120,000 miles.
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On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 16:37:09 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"

Honda bundles a lot of stuff into their $1000 belt job. I am not sure if I got plugs or not but I never replaced them.
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